Amy Hughes

Like so many of the Arab nations, Egypt’s tourism sector has been hit hard. Gone are many of the tourists who swoop to Cairo to take in the pyramids. And, even Sharm el Sheikh, the popular dive and snorkel resort on the southern tip of the Sinai Peninsula, known for being a safe haven, is now suffering.

Time to kick back... the Ritz Carlton

With weekly protests over President Mohammed Morsi’s sweeping legislative changes removing a check and balance system, Britain’s foreign office has issued warnings to tourists. 

As a journalist, I tend to like to fly into places just as others are hoping to get out. But there’s no reason to bail on a vacation to Sharm these days. If anything, now is a great time to go, with no crowds to battle for towels on beach loungers. Protests are held away from the big hotel areas and tourists are not at all under threat. The Egyptians in the tourism sector are friendlier than ever, and keen to strike good bargains.

So after we negotiate a price for the ride to the Ritz Carlton, we sit back and enjoy the view before making it through the ultra-secure entrance gates.

Bliss... Sharm el Sheikh

The “wow” factor is in the sweeping, full-length windows that hit us with a view of the endless pool and beach as soon as we enter the lobby. It’s the rocking chairs I spot first – a few of them out on the terrace near the bar, looking out at the sea. I’m already saving my spot for happy hour.

The pool is like a series of 20 metre tiles snaked together, a perfect training ground for enthusiastic swimmers, myself among them. And just a few steps beyond, is a wonderfully non-manicured beach. That’s right. No one comes along and combs the beach at the end of the day. This, is the real thing. Natural sand dunes create five separate coves along the edge of the Red Sea. Straw umbrellas look like slanted sombreros in this very authentic setting.

And there are those rocking chairs again. This time a few are dotted around private sun decks nestled in the sand. There’s something about a rocking chair that’s instantly soothing, even without sitting in one. It’s a symbol of calm and peacefulness. The rockers, and an even better version – the hammock, all invite casual lounging. I stare out at the sea, falling into a timeless reverie.

For more deliberate relaxation, massages are done on the beach, in a small tented pavilion right out on the edge of the dunes with the sound of waves providing a hypnotic soundtrack.

Intimate and tranquil... Sea Front Villa Room

Set on a coral reef, the Ritz attracts non-residents for its fish tank; an enclosed swimming area where masks and fins aren’t required to see beautiful, finned creatures in technicolour. It’s this ease of use that really works at the Ritz. Everything one needs to unwind, from the views, to the rockers, to the instant underwater gratification, is instantly accessible.

There’s no faffing, no equipment needed, no organising to do. No long walks from one place to the other, just a few steps, and you’re there.

When we finally pull ourselves up from the horizontal state, we jump in the pool for water aerobics. Yes, water aerobics. We’re both sceptical we’ll be able to burn off breakfast, but Mohammed gets us going and has us doubled over in fits of laughter. He’s just one of many friendly and attentive staff members who all seem eager to please.

Several rooms, including ours, have direct access to the pool. Beds are comfy, linens soft. One of the best parts about this hotel is the one we don’t even notice until we’re ready to leave – the location of the Kids Club. Seemingly by design, it’s perfectly located at the front of the hotel, divided by the large reception building, from the rest of the resort. It’s an ingenious way of allowing both kids and adults have their own space without disturbing one another. The little ones have everything they need: a water park with a sandy beach, connected to a lazy river where they can cruise in small canoes. There’s even a bar and cafe at hand for parents who want to chill out with their children.

And for those of us without kids, the popular nightlife of Na’ama Bay is just a short cab ride away. There, it’s easy to find bars, restaurants, and a maze of local stalls to weave through.

Ritz Carlton Sharm el Sheikh

www.ritzcarlton.com

Amy Hughes 

The best seafood in Sharm el Sheik ... Fares

“What’s the best seafood restaurant in town?” I ask a trusted friend and British expat who moved to Sharm el Sheikh five years ago. Without pausing, she answers “Fares. The one in the old market is busier, but the one in El Mercato is slightly better – either way, it’s the best.”

Egypt isn’t known for its food. In fact, its cuisine is known as an amalgamation of other flavours and recipes from around the region, with no stand-out dish. A typical breakfast is foul medames, a heavy bowl of broad beans in a thick sauce. It’s tasty, but one serving is a bit like swallowing a brick. So my rule when in Egypt is generally to stick to Lebanese food. After two nights at Fairuz, a good, but expensive Lebanese restaurant in Sharm el Sheikh’s busy Na’ama Bay, I’m desperate for fresh seafood away from the tourist zone where men call out, “Hey spicy baby.”

A taxi driver drops us off just outside the old market where business is suffering from a steep drop in tourism. The Arab Spring has had a knock-on effect, with a new president limiting checks and balances, and instituting controversial laws, causing protests twice a week even in this seaside town known for its diving. Here, the men hawking jewellery and embroidered shirts do the soft-sell, instantly discounting prices to lure the handful of tourists.

We spot Fares instantly on a brightly lit corner. Tourists and locals crowd the place and two steps in, I’m eyeing up dishes.

Great variety... fresh seafood at Fares old market

I see aubergine salads but none on the menu. “Behind the counter, at the back,” directs the waiter. My companion knows better than to stop me as I make a bee-line for the back. There are trays of soft, slow-roasted eggplant mixed with garlic, parsley, onions and tomatoes, and plum tomatoes stuffed with garlic and parsley, chickpeas, and a beetroot paste. I order the eggplant and tomatoes and head back to choose the fish.

The salads are the kind one expects to get in Israel or Italy – places known for juicy, ripe tomatoes, and a judicious use of fresh herbs. This is not the kind of food that springs to mind amid the desert.

I start browsing the classics – grilled calamari, and baked sea bass, but I have to try the fish tagine. And then I spot the red herring – lobster fajitas. Yep, lobster fajitas, in Egypt, and we’re not even at a Western restaurant. At $16, the bargain is too hard to pass up, never mind the “wow” factor.

After our second round of aubergine, a small, deep crock brimming with chunks of white fish, calamari, and prawns in a light tomato sauce riddled with translucent diced onions is set down on the table. The waiter turns it upside down to fill the plate, and I can’t even wait for it to cool before trying it. One bite reveals the uniqueness of the sauce – the saffron. It’s enough to be present, but not overpowering. It’s a sauce I could eat by the spoonful, and indeed, attempt to. I’d never have expected it, nor thought of putting the two together, but it’s a brilliant pairing.

The lobster fajitas arrive in typical fashion, on a sizzling platter of caramelised onions and peppers. While the actual lobster portions are fairly small, I can’t fault the veggies. It’s as if the chef did time in one of the local TGI Friday’s restaurants long enough to master the American/Mexican favourite.

Stuffed and sated, we finish with a typical Egyptian glass of lemon juice, topped with strawberries. We think we’ve ordered Fares’ best, and are already plotting what we’d order again, or try on our next visit. Our only regret is it’s our last night and with no idea of our return to Sharm, we may have no choice but to try these recipes at home.

Fares Seafood Restaurant

Old Market +2 069 366 30 76

El Mercato +2 069 366 35 55