Vibrant… Wanfujing night markets

Indulging in this fine sample of Chinese gastronomic tradition is just one of the sensory experiences that make up Travel Indochina’s newly launched food-lover’s tour of the China.

The 13-day China Culinary Discovery tour takes wandering foodies through Beijing, Xian, Chengdu and Shanghai to explore the country’s colourful culinary scene – from sampling street food in the Forbidden City, to hands-on cooking lessons in hutong houses.

The journey begins in Beijing, the country’s bustling capital, where travellers explore some of the few remaining hutongs (ancient alleyways) and feast on a lip-smacking Peking Duck feast at one of the city’s most popular roast duck restaurants.

The culinary quest continues through Xian’s vibrant Muslim Quarter where a sumptuous dumpling banquet awaits.

A short flight then takes tour guests to Chengdu to see the captivating Giant Pandas and shop for ingredients at a traditional market to use in an afternoon Sichuan cooking lesson with the locals.

The tour culminates in Shanghai where foodies immerse themselves in the lively back streets of the Chinese Quarter and the former French Concession area of the city.

Travel Indochina’s inaugural China Culinary Discovery tour departs on 8 April.

www.travelindochina.co.uk

Jonathan Porter

This is a tale of love, war, betrayal, redemption and  most importantly, cold beer.

In the hills outside Beijing is the spot where Ming general Wu Sangui decided the fate of China and millions of Chinese for centuries to follow.
It is the spring of 1644 and he has just rushed back from Shanhai Pass, at the Great Wall, where he had been fighting off the invading Manchus.

He makes it back to Beijing just in time to watch a rebel army take the Forbidden City. Which naturally enough is in flames.
The story goes that a lieutenant rides up from the Forbidden City and informs him that inside, the rebel general Li Zicheng is “even now, slaking his lust” on Wu’s favourite concubine, Chen Yuanyuan.
Wu makes his decision. He turns his mighty war horse around, rides back to the border and allows in the invading Manchu armies. “Just let me get first crack at that bastard Li,” he tells the invading Manchus.
Just one of the facts, I happened to pick up during my visit to the Forbidden City in the centre of Beijing, the official imperial household of the Ming and Qing dynasties from 1420 until 1924.
Inside there is also the tree that Chongzhen, the last Ming emperor, used to hang himself. Yuanyuan, or Moneypenny as I call her, obligingly giving him a hand with the noose (think the last days in the Bunker).
Beijing’s pleasures reach beyond its incredible history. For starters, there are great restaurants and some of the coolest bars in Asia.

There is a chance to climb a piece of the Great Wall, and put yourself in Wu’s shoes, a mere two hours’ drive north of the capital.
It’s a fair hike in pretty thin air: do what I did and just keep aiming for the next guard tower, and think of Edmund Hillary.
On this trip to Beijing I stay at the Beijing Hilton, a five-star hotel opened in 1994 in the heart of the capital’s new commercial and diplomatic district.
It has a retro-style bar with bright colours replete with Bauhaus chairs and Chinese-inspired metal birdcages above the crescent-shaped bar.
You can sip on cocktails and snack on tapas beside the Hilton Beijing hotel’s glass spiral staircase.
The hotel is a refreshing retreat from an intensive day of meetings, shopping or sightseeing. Offering 340 rooms and suites, it has the cozy atmosphere of a boutique hotel and serves the finest selection of food in town.
Go to the Da Dong Roast Duck restaurant, one of the most popular restaurants in town for serving up the signature Beijing entree of Peking duck.
First, some Chinese phrases that might come in handy: shau jeur, which means, darling or Miss, boo yow which is “go away” and handy for persistent hawkers; lah jow for “where’s the chilli sauce?” and of course the ubiquitous bing for “cold”, put it in front of any beer you order.

Got those phrases straight? Then you’re ready to go to Sanlitun Bar Street.
The next day, feeling slightly blurry, it’s off to the Silk Markets, where I go berserk with my Amex.
The market is government controlled, which means no haggling, which saves a lot of time but takes a bit of juice out of the experience. I picked up a silk duvet and cover for about $100 and silk jim-jams and naturally a smoking jacket for about the same price.
The prize was a strand of blue South Sea pearls, complete with authenticity certificate for under $800.

The yarn about Wu and Yuanyuan is a classic Chinese love story by the way, and has been compared the Helen of Troy epic. Could her face have

launched a thousand ships, and burnt the topless towers of Ilium? Well she certainly played a part in torching the Forbidden City and changed China forever.

Some loose ends: Li got away from the Manchus, who ruled China until 1912 give or take some Tennessee windage. Wu devoted the rest of his life to hunting down the despoiler of his love, but never found him. Although some legends say he did manage to make him pay. I’d like to think he did.

And what of Yuanyuan? You can read about her fate here.

Impeccably stylish ... Maan Coffee

It wasn’t too long ago that Beijing’s coffee scene was limited to chain stores sporting the ubiquitous green logo. When a Starbucks opened in the Forbidden City in 2000, it was shut down seven years later amidst huge protests that an American coffee chain sitting in the middle of China’s top cultural and tourist attraction might not be entirely befitting. This is a severe example, although one that deserves consideration. For better or for worse— or just somewhere in between —coffee shops are quickly replacing teahouses as a gathering place for work and pleasure. If you’re keen on plunking yourself down somewhere wifi friendly, head to some of these quality destinations. You’ll find yourself next to creative types and harried but well groomed tai tais (housewives) and discover post espresso that the coffee culture here is anything but derivative.

Fisheye Café

Minimalist and trendy, with an airy blue and white scheme. Perhaps the most concentrated amount of iPads, iPhones and Apple paraphernalia can be found at the small but spacious Fisheye Café, appropriate given its one minute walking proximity to Sanlitun’s bustling Apple store. Though the hard seats leave your bum wishing fluffy pillows went with the décor of this place, other long-dwelling patrons don’t seem affected. West coasters from the United States rejoice: all the coffee is delivered from San Francisco’s Ritual Coffee Roasters. If that means nothing to you, just know that the cup of joe here is very good. The best part though? For every cup of coffee you order, you get a free mini cupcake.

S1-18, 1/F Sanlitun Village, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District, Chaoyang District

三里屯

Daily 10am – 10pm

The Place Café, 那儿咖啡

Located in the expat friendly, residential Central Park, The Place Café is always filled with busy housewives, nannies and white-collar business people trickling in from the nearby CBD area. There is another branch in Shuanjing, but the one in Central Park offers a warmer environment. Ample outdoor seating makes for good people watching, while indoors is cozy and spacious. This place offers an expansive lunch and dinner menu – try some of the yummy sandwiches and pasta. Kids can often be seen happily slurping spaghetti here during the daylight hours. Electrical outlets are found at half of the tables and are highly coveted, just spy the solitary figure tinkering away on the fully charged laptop and ask to share.

Unit 101A, Central Park, 6 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District

朝阳区朝阳门外大街6号新城国际101A

Daily 7.30am-10pm

 Zarah Coffee

The go-to place for the freelance journalist or freelance anything. Zarah exudes an office-away-from-home vibe, and many make this European style coffee shop their personal workspace. White, wooden and simple, Zarah offers delicious nibbles, sandwiches and healthy granola mixes. Look for eclectic pieces of art hanging from the walls, the pieces change on rotation and are usually the work of local artists. The location – right next to Nanluoguxiang – makes for excellent hipster gawking, if you manage to snag a coveted seat by the window.

Nanluoguxiang / Gulou Dongdajie

42 Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng District

南锣鼓巷鼓楼东大街

东城区鼓楼东大街42号

Daily 9.30am-midnight

Hercules

Like the demigod this café shares a name with, Hercules has two identities: a sleek and clean venue that serves as a sandwich and coffee grazing spot in the day, and a sexy, pre-clubbing bar at night. Streamlined furnishings make their home in a warehouse-like stone space, and mood lighting with a small bar area sends off a mature attitude.  Consistent techno and lounge music is played at a comfortable volume from an enviable speaker system. Hercules has a slew of seating options: beds, couches, chairs, stools, a random table here and there. There are free refills for caffeinated beverages from 2-5pm and happy hour deals every day from 4pm to 9pm; you’ll leave this place feeling buzzed, no matter what your choice of beverage is.

Sanlitun 三里屯

2/F, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun, Chaoyang District

朝阳区三里屯同里2楼

Daily 11am-midnight

Maan Coffee 漫咖啡

Trendy, stylish, impeccably decorated. Connected to Ai Jiang Shan, the famed Korean restaurant next door, Maan Coffee brings Beijing a whiff of Korean-style inspired waffles and coffee. The theme of this place is, well, waffles and coffee: waffles topped with whipped cream, waffles served up alongside syrup and sausage, waffles bedazzled with assorted bright berries.  Personal humidifiers and candles hanging from the indoor trees feel like a page out of an enchanted fairytale, set in a magical forest. AC is not used sparingly during the summer; and the illusion of a waterfall gently trickling over the glass roof makes you wonder why your own home doesn’t feel this comfortable. A variety of seating options range from plush, upper management leather couches to wooden chairs donned with eclectic, animal print cushions. No need to worry about your electronics running out of power as you tinker away here, outlets are readily available at all of the seats, making this one of the most laptop friendly places in the city.

7 Jingtai XiLu

朝阳区将太西路7号

Daily 9am – midnight, 2am on summer nights

Hannah Leung

Hannah Leung

Sure, there are Western hotel buffet-brunches in Beijing that beckon the need for elastic waistbands, but plopping yourself down at a Chinese-run buffet boasting the same kind of indulgences is as much anthropological as it is decadent. Golden Jaguar, known among Chinese as jin qian bao, is a household name synonymous with “upscale buffet”.

Golden Jaguar offers up a self-proclaimed “international” assortment of food, with a dizzying array of cooking stations covering nearly all Asian territories—Japan, Korea, Singapore—and expanding ambitiously to America, Italy, India and even France.

To fully appreciate Golden Jaguar, one must understand and appreciate the comical, kitschy amusement park elements.  (You need tickets for certain food stands; those standing under 120cm get in for half price!) Expect to enter a huge labyrinth filled with ornate, crystal chandeliers, helpful fuwuyuan (service staff) and eager Chinese patrons expertly balancing plates of lightly salted, steamed grouper and fried tempura.

It’s fine if you don’t make it through all the options of dim sum, seafood and assorted potatoes, sautéed and battered fifteen ways the first plate around. By the time you meander around this place – and it will basically take you about ten minutes to stroll through; this buffet is China’s most gastronomically

gigantic gala– your food will have digested, making room for the next few plates. Not all the stations are worth checking out: skip the Western stuff and head straight to the Japanese, Taiwanese and Cantonese stations.The tip to do this properly is to make good use of the numbered clips placed on your table. (Approximately four to a table.) Hand it over to the friendly chefs at the various cooking stations to place your order; these tapas-sized plates come delivered to your table. Recommended is the seafood at the Cantonese station: clams sautéed lightly with garlic pair well with delicately steamed scallops sprinkled with ginger. Over in the seafood section, slabs of generously sliced sashimi are quickly embezzled by excited patrons; aunties start walking faster at the sight of a new pan of steaming crab claws making its way on to the assembly line. While the Golden Jaguar branding team hints at upscale buffet dining, the amount of food and clientele suggest more of a frenzied, apocalyptic last feast.

The selection of loose-leaf teas, brewed in personal tea kettles are a cute, custom touch, and the fresh, colorful array of fruit act as a needed palate cleanser, ranging from dragon fruit (succulent, sweet flesh dotted with edible black seeds) to fragrant Chinese pears. There’s also ice cream and an assortment of western sweets, but Asian tapioca concoctions and Chinese puff pastries stuffed with durian are far more interesting.

Not everything translates well. For example, a glass of sunken maraschino cherries marinated in suspicious neon green liquor has no redeeming qualities, despite the supposed alcoholic content. And yes, there is free flowing wine and beer here; albeit, the wine is the local type— with boxes of it standing around as decoration—perhaps the best thing the wine is used for. The beer on draft however, is refreshing and cooling, and hey, free flowing alcoholic beverages always make for a merrier time! After a few glasses, the ambience at Golden Jaguar starts looking classy, instead of the blinged-out Ikea cafeteria vibe it initially presents.

Despite the fact that much of the country’s diet subsists on the crop of the month, for those venturing into Golden Jaguar, the abundance of choice and simultaneously, waste, is staggering. Golden Jaguar reflects the status quo and mantra of the growing class of western embracing, well-to-do Chinese: quantity over quality. This said, while Chinese buffets in the Americas and elsewhere have come to be equated with cheap, soggy fried food, Golden Jaguar does exceedingly well in surpassing expectations.

This is a venue best suited for an informal business lunch (RMB 198 per head) or a festive dinner (RMB 238). There’s a live band playing Chinese contemporary pop music, a good prelude to drunken KTV fun. Three locations of Golden Jaguar exist in Beijing, but try the one at The Place, a setting as flashy as the buffet itself

Golden Jaguar

 4/F, North Bldg, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District

朝阳区光华路9号世贸天阶大厦北楼4层

Opening hours:

Mon-Fri 11am-2.30pm, 5-10.30pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-4pm, 5-10.30pm

+ (86 10) 6553 8888 for reservations

Website: http://www.goldenjaguar.com/enu/default.aspx

That experience will be available in the Middle Kingdom from July as China ramps up its super trains in a move that humbles American ingenuity and puts pressure on airlines.

The futuristic high speed train will begin operation between Shanghai and Beijing in July.

Traveling at 300km/hour (180 mph) the new high-speed rail link between Beijing and Shanghai will make the trip in just 4 hours and 45 minutes. There are 90 trains operating each way daily carrying 1004 passengers each.

Compared with 50 flights per day currently linking the two cities, the train system is expected to have a significant impact on the airline business and take pressure off conventional rail, which can be devoted to hauling freight.

China travel oracle Helen Wong of Helen Wong’s Tours (www.helenwongstours.com) said  the fast train made more sense than flying.

“Like in Europe and Japan, the excitement of travelling on a high-speed train which reaches a speed of up to 350km/h is a comfortable, exhilarating experience. You actually get the chance to see more of China’s countryside from the comfort of your seat,’’ Ms Wong told Lunch Magazine.

Trains make sense ... China specialist Helen Wong of helenwongstours.com

She also emphasized the advantages of taking the train over dealing with the hassles of flying.

“One of the beauties is that you don’t have to check in two hours ahead of departure time as you have to do when flying.  Bring into play security checks and travel time it takes to reach the airport from the hotel, train travel makes good sense. Let’s face it, a train journey of less than five hours sounds like a worthwhile alternative to the two-hour flight.’’

One drawback though is that there’s no porter service and the luggage area is restricted. So you need to travel light – that means no heavy oversized suitcases, she said.

The immense network of fast trains – it is the most recent piece of a planned grid that will span 45,000 km in four years – would have far reaching implications for travel within China, she said.

“Such is the demand for air tickets that there was a need for an alternative swift style of transport to take the pressure off flights. The fact that rail travellers can cover the distances in less than half the previous rail time will encourage more to travel.”

And with oil rapidly running out, rail travel makes more sense than ever.

“As the price of aviation fuel continues to rise, the need for fast train travel has become more essential for travel throughout China. The growth of a nationwide fast train network will take pressure off domestic flights. At the same time it will increase the number of tourists, both domestically and from abroad.”

Ministry of Railways chief engineer, He Huawu recently described the project as “the pride of China and the Chinese people.’’.

“It took just 39 months to build such a high-standard and world-renowned high-speed rail line, which is a gift for the 90th anniversary of the Party.”

China Guide’s Peter Danford said since trains rarely are delayed or affected by weather the new railway link is expected to be as fast as taking a flight and less expensive.  These services will give tourists greater flexibility in their schedules and help decrease the cost of tours.

The trains have business class, first class and second-class seating.

Mr Danford said the link was the latest temptation to lure rail fans to China.

“ Rail travel is considered to be a romantic and historical mode of adventure.  Yet in many western countries its development has stopped or faded away entirely in favor of air travel.  China is a living example of railroad development in the modern era,’’ Mr Danford told Lunch Magazine.

Those who are fans of railroads will find much to do in China, said Mr Danford.

“If you are flying in or out of the Pudong international airport in Shanghai then you can ride the Maglev train between the city and the airport.  On a test run the train achieved a record speed of 501kph and is routinely run at 430kph during the day.  Even if you are not flying out of the airport you can buy a return ticket from the city and make the 8 minute trip in both directions.

“You can also ride the subway systems in Beijing and Shanghai, a very practical way to get around and avoid traffic on the surface.

‘’From Beijing a trip to Xi’an on the deluxe soft sleeper train can be a romantic and fun adventure.  With your own private two bed compartment including a private toilet, you can hide in your cabin and look out the window.

Mr Danford said if you really want an epic railway journey, ride the highest train in the world, between Beijing and Lhasa.  “The journey takes over 50  hours and the train has oxygen outlets so guests can breathe easy,’’ he said.

Travel by the new fast train in conjunction with hotel bookings and sightseeing can be booked though Australian-based China specialist Helen Wong’s Tours (www.helenwongstours.com or phone 1300 788 322 in Australia).

The China Guide (www.thechinaguide.com) will be offering booking services for these new trains as part of their China custom and group tours.

Jonathan Porter

Ear-popping ... Beijing's highest bar

Atmosphere (云酷), Contemporary Air and Flair in Beijing

The bar scene in Beijing once seemed incomparable to the sophisticated crowds of South Korea, Singapore, or Hong Kong, provided, of course you are searching for the sleek, industrial environment.

But in a city where newer is almost always perceived as better and where places seldom aim for subtlety, Atmosphere, a hotel lounge located on the 80^th floor of the China World Summit, aptly represents China’s upwardly-mobile tastes.

Holding a place in the heart of Beijing’s CBD, Atmosphere has the impressive title of being the highest bar in Beijing.

On a good day in Beijing where the AQI (air quality index) is decent and the city is not enshrouded in an unnatural smog, peer out from Atmosphere’s looming, panoramic windows for a stunning view of historic Tiananmen Square juxtaposed with the glitz and seemingly impossibility of high skyscrapers in the business district.

Situated next to Atmosphere is CCTV (China Central Television), an iconic building occupying prime real estate on Beijing’s skyline and also humorously nicknamed as “the pants” for its resemblance to a pair of boxers, currently an unoccupied building due to an incident of exploding, unruly fireworks.

But woes of unpleasant accidents and political issues will subdue themselves in this cozy environment, as Atmosphere is the unanimous, go-to place where business deals are happily sealed and otherwise blasé clients are brought in for purposes of being impressed.

This is the kind of place where it’s important to pay attention to what you’re wearing—after all, the slightly pompous air generated in a place like this screams indiscreetly of status—but if you can tolerate a certain level of pretension, this lustrous lounge is an absolute must, for both the view and patron-watching.

Schmooze with some of China’s nouveau riche, take in the modernity of a seemingly tradition-seeped city. The well made, extensive menu of European drinks are an added plus.

Jazz enthusiasts will fancy the live musical entertainment; you can also sit farther away if conversation is profound and outside entertainment is not on the side order. Don’t feel embarrassed if you find yourself liking the complimentary nut mix too much; not to be compared to the average pub fare, this is a delicious dish of spicy wasabi, salted peanuts and seaweed-wrapped nuts.

Look down the crack in the elevator when you get off the 80^th floor for a truly vertiginous experience. By the way, the entire ride up to the bar caps in at under a minute, be prepared for some serious ear popping. But be careful not to drop your credit card at any point. It will probably come in handy at this venue.

Atmosphere is a bar that looks as good in the daylight as it does at night; even with wine goggles on, this is a sultry, sexy environment. Soak up the smooth drinks, plush red chairs, glowing mood lighting and soft candles; you’ll soon forget you’re in the money making center of bustling Beijing.

Hannah Leung

Atmosphere

China World Summit Wing, 1 Jianguomenwai, Beijing, China

国贸3期80层

Opening hours

12am – 2am

+(86 10) 6505 2299 ext 6432 / 6433
Website: http://www.shangrila.com/en/property/beijing/chinaworldsummitwing/dining/restaurant/atmosphere