A Special Lunch Correspondent

“Splash, splash, slosh … slosh, slurp.’’

The first splash is me diving into my private pool in my private pool villa at Alila Villas Soori on Bali’s south coast.

The secondary splashes were the water sloshing over the side into one of the captive gardens surrounding my private pool in my pool villa. I do a couple of lazy laps, underwater, then a few on the surface, then just for a change soak my bonce under the fountain trickling musically into the pool.

A private splice of heaven… Alila Villas Soori

It’s 7.32am. The day is very warm, but not seer. I hoist myself out of the pool pivoting nicely, with maximum pressure at the height of the turn, and sit with my back against the doorjamb where my villa’s living room meets the pool edge, taking a sip of icy cold mineral water. A picture of relaxation if ever there was one.

I am the Deepak Chopra of chilling out, the Tony Robbins of repose. Why, I could take the most driven alpha-type personality and within two days he would be contemplating chucking it all in to live in Bali and say things like: “Woah, gnarly waves dude’’.

My villa is ultra modern and is very serious about the amenities – rain room, outside shower, bath big enough for three. Then there is the rest. The bed is the size of a baseball field and there are seven lazing around options (I counted) including an inside daybed, an outdoor deck, and cabana with daybed and dining area – all of which get a workout during my stay.

Where old meets new… Bali

Ultra modern, yet set amid ancient rice paddy fields. A two-metre path is all that separates me from working fields. In the middle distant rice terraces rise up a small ride. Far away what seems to be an actual cloud-capped volcano dominates the horizon.

General manager Marco Groten, who single handedly carved the resort out of the jungle agrees: “Our biggest point of difference is our location.’’

“You are in the real Bali. In the Bali a lot of people have seen 20 to 30 years ago. The rice paddies, the beach, the nearby village with a beautiful temple,’’ Mr Groten tells Lunch Magazine.

“We are in a corner of Bali that is very quiet and very traditional.’’

The classic newer-than-next-week design and the resort’s clean lines are also a big focus.

“It is very modern but a lot of Balinese materials were used. So because of the black sand beach we used black and white and greys to blend in with the property, which is camouflaged further with the landscaping.’’

And the food is also authentically local and 90 to 95 per cent sourced locally.

“There is always one restaurant that has Indonesian or Balinese food.

Carving out the jungle… Marco Groten

“We want people the have the opportunity to eat as the Balinese do so sometimes it can be a bit spicy. I can be a different on the palate, but we want you to eat as authentically as possible.’’

He says there is a feeling that the old Bali has been lost.

“We see a lot of negative things in the press, but there is still magic in Bali.

“We still want to offer the luxury that travellers look forward to.’’

Among those things, you can indulge yourself in Alila Spa, whch is getting a separate review.

If you are hard up for things to do – inconceiveable I know – there are things like horseriding along the beach or a wander through the nearby village and Tanah Lot Temple.

There are too many dining options to try them all during my short stay. Among them are the beach picnic, where they take you to a deserted part of the coastline with a picnic hamper and some wine – for thirst is a dangerous thing.

Or your personal butler – did I mention the unobtrusive butler or host (available if you press “host’’ on your house phone) will organise a chef to come to your cabana and fire up the barby. Then there are the three restaurants, Cotta, Ombak and the Reading Room, or regular in-room dining.

Ombak is the Villas’ signature restaurant. The night we dine there executive chef Dwayne Cheer cooks up a storm of dishes. The highlights are a seafood dish lifted with a prawn bisque and pate de foie gras with melt in your mouth eel.

Then the next night I try Cotta and hit them up for the Balinese set menu. About eight dishes in miniature banana trays. Ranging from fiery curries, fish kebabs, to more subtle jungle flavours. My waiter indicates where to start and stop.

I keep my servers running back and forth to the kitchen fetching alternately, more chilli and, surprisingly perhaps, more beer, which come out in individual ice-filled coolers – for beer can get warm in the tropics if you’re not careful.

Only go to Alila Villas Soori if you are after the ideal combination of a romantic getaway that gives you the authentic flavour of Bali with great food, excellent, unobtrusive service and total privacy in an unbelievably exquisite tropical setting.

The website is below. I’d get online right away if I were you.

The family that surfs together, stays together … Greg Bunt samples one of his creations

Have you ever wondered where the awesome food comes from when your are staying in world-class luxury retreat? Lunch Magazine’s Lauren Arena talks to expat chef Greg Bunt, of Sundara the new beachfront restaurant at Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay

What inspired your decision to become a professional chef?

In all honesty it was the prospects of travelling and being based in different countries as well as the being able to experience different cultures.

How is Sundara different from other places you have worked?

We have created a real beach feel with the cuisine at Sundara, simple plating with fresh and light flavours.  It is very different from what I used to cook being based on in a fast paced city environment. To me, the venue and surroundings have a profound influence on the style of food I put on a plate and this applies to not only a resort destination like Bali but anywhere in the world.

What do you like most about Bali?

I love surfing and so Bali is an ideal location for me. And my other passion, cooking, I love the exotic ingredients found in Bali.

When you’re not in the kitchen, what do you enjoy doing in Bali?
Simply put, besides the obvious of discovering Bali with my family – surfing.

Tell me about your experience living and working overseas.

 I have lived in Hong Kong and Macau and cooked throughout Asia.

Chefs are constantly learning and this is what really drives my passion for what I do. I have a very fond memory of living with a Thai dessert chef whom I met at a market. He really took me under his wing and taught me a great deal about Thai desserts, working with Asian sugars and flours. This and many other anecdotes make for amazing experiences in the life of a chef.

Describe your work/life balance

There is little time for much else when you are a professional chef. That is, if you want to be excellent. When I am off, I am generally thinking about new combinations of flavour or what I have to achieve when I return to the kitchen. I enjoy moments with my family which normally brings me back down to earth.

What is your signature dish?

Signature dishes for me are always changing, at the moment I really enjoy cooking a salt bush lamb rack for two persons served with broad beans, artichokes, mint leaves, rainbow chard and tomato relish.

What is the most unusual ingredient you’ve worked with/use?
Bali flower heart, a sour little red heart-shaped flower.

What is your most complex dish?

All our dishes are complex in the steps and methods to prepare them.

What are your thoughts on modern cuisine versus traditional cuisine?
There is a place in today’s world for cuisines, both modern and traditional. I never close my mind to anything new or anything traditional.

What is your advice for young chefs?
Keep your attitude to yourself, be humble, listen, watch and learn the good and take note of the bad, travel and cook in as many countries as you can and never believe you have learned it all.

”What local ingredients do you use to blend your own take on traditional cuisine?
Coconut saour, a toasted coconut spice mix that we use together with mangosteen, prawns, ikan bilis, herbs and spicy dressing in our all day menu.

What makes a five-star dining experience?

A timeless space, discreet and unintrusive attentive service, a well planned beverage list and constant ever-changing food.

The name Sundara is the Sanskrit word for “beautiful” and pays tribute to the glowing sun that warms this Indian Ocean hotspot.
Immediately positioned as one of Bali’s top dining destinations, Sundara offers the perfect mix of five-star flair and relaxed beach-club vibe.

With its direct beachfront location and panoramic views of Jimbaran Bay, Sundara provides a sexy and sophisticated hideaway – all day from lunch until late night.
“Sundara will become a must-see landmark for all of Bali,” says Michael Branham, General Manager of Four Seasons Resort Bali at  Jimbaran Bay.

“We’re creating a very social meeting place that will attract a stylish crowd from well beyond our Resort.

It’s part of our ongoing desire to evolve and deliver an outstanding and exciting experience for our guests.”

Helmed by Greg  and the restaurant’s General Manager Jan-Peer Lehfeldt, Sundara feels modern yet relaxing, cutting edge yet natural.
The menu is eclectic and international. For lunch, you can choose from shared plates of sushi, salads and wood-fired pizzas, served
on the open-air rooftop deck with panoramic views.

For the afternoon, you can book a daybed by the infinity edge pool, change into swimsuits and enjoy cocktails and casual cuisine by the water.

In the evening, Sundara transforms into one of Bali’s most sophisticated dining experiences. you can expect an abundance of vibrant, innovative and classic flavours, celebrating steak and seafood.

www.fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay/dining/restaurants/sundara/

Serene... Sundara

The glowing sun sets over the Indian Ocean as the waves lap effortlessly onto the beach at Jimbaran Bay – the perfect backdrop to Bali’s newest restaurant, Sundara.

Meaning ‘beautiful’ in Sanskrit, Sandara offers the perfect mix of fresh flavours, savvy wine list and a relaxed beach-club vibe. With its direct beachfront location and panoramic views of the bay, Sundara is the latest culinary instalment at the Four Seasons Resort Bali.

Helmed by Executive Chef Greg Bunt, the menu is eclectic and international with share plates, sushi and pizzas served at lunch on the relaxed, open-air rooftop deck.

In the evening, Sundara transforms into one of Bali’s most sophisticated dining experiences. An abundance of vibrant, innovative and classic flavours are on display, celebrating steak and seafood. Late at night, the candlelit beachside provides an intimate and sensual mood – the perfect spot for a romantic dinner or a bespoke cocktail. 

Warm... Sundara bar

“Sundara will become a must-see landmark for all of Bali,” says Michael Branham, General Manager of the Resort.

“We’re creating a very social meeting place that will attract a stylish crowd from well beyond our Resort. It’s part of our ongoing desire to evolve and deliver an outstanding and exciting experience for our guests,” he says.

Designed by Koichi Yasuhiro from Tokyo’s renowned Design Studio SPIN, the restaurant spans across two levels, as soaring Balinese-style pavilions create a distinctive space with a luxurious yet relaxed ambiance.

www.fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay

A Special Lunch Correspondent 

The Sheraton Resort is part of and surrounded by the throbbing heart of Kuta … and yet, comfortably removed from Bali’s party central.

You can rub shoulders with the hoi polloi or sit in your comfortable suite removed from it all, but still take part vicariously in the sights, sounds and – ah, yes – even the smells of Kuta night life.

Beachside... Sheraton Resort suite

With the famous beach just a few footsteps away from the entrance, and all of the beach bars in comfortable stumbling distance you are in the action.

But it is still possible to have a true resort experience and never leave the hotel until it’s time for your transfer, with all your meals taken care of either in Bene, the world-class Italian restaurant overlooking the beach and the hotel's infinity pool, or in Feast, with its eclectic mix of Balinese and international fusion cuisine.

Then there is the hotel bar and lounge, which is the best spot on Kuta to watch the sunset while schlepping a cocktail.

A couple of times I opt for room service in my chamber, which has a feel of serene opulence, especially when taken on the sun lounges overlooking the beach.

Once I even ask them to bring champagne and dinner for two out to the main hotel deck – no problem, says room service.

Best breakfast in Kuta... Feast restaurant

Most things are no problem at the Sheraton Resort Kuta, which is run with placid calm by Dario Orsini, who having come from Italy, Germany, Emirates, Spain, England, Egypt, Australia, Thailand and Malaysia, wears the Sheraton uniform with panache and style.

Every morning I’m at the Sheraton Resort Kuta I head to Feast for breakfast. After the first morning it’s kind of crash priority.

The range, freshness and quality really is something to write home about.

The first morning I start with a full Indian breakfast feast, with dahl, vegetable curry, poppadums and chilli pickle. Then – deep breath – Chinese dumplings with chilli, fried noodles, bacon and eggs, congee, smoked salmon on dark rye with giant caperberries and lemon juice, sushi and sashimi, then waffles with maple syrup and frozen yoghurt for breakfast dessert.

All this is washed down with the usual coffees, teas and fruits juices and icy cold mineral waters.

You have to keep your strength up in the tropics and, as I’m fond of saying, thirst is a dangerous thing.

All this sets me up for lunch at Bene. Make sure you grab a table upstairs overlooking the pool and beach.

Relaxed... Bene restaurant

The frutti di mare pizzas are a dreamy tomato sauce on an authentic thin crust Italian base, a neat accompaniment to a crisp cool Italian white wine and Chinese beer.

One of the highlights of staying at the Sheraton Resort at Kuta is the Beachwalk shopping mall next door (it’s connected through an underground tunnel, so you can go there direct without hitting the strip).

There are all the usual high end retailers of course and on the top deck an outdoor food court that has authentic Indonesian and other cuisines.

This is how it works. You charge a swipe card at one of the cashiers and then turn yourself loose – and they give you change if there’s any cash left over on your card so you’re not left a pricey bit of plastic.

There is a Malay hut, a China hut, a Japanese hut and – and this might come in handy if you’re fond of spicy food, or like me need to keep your fluids up – a beer hut.

I spend two afternoons here rubbing shoulders with Indonesia’s rapidly growing middle class and I’m the only white man, despite the presence of thousands of them on the beach across the road.

A group of girls are extremely friendly, asking to have their picture taken – I reach for their phone, but they say, no, they want to be photographed with me.

I’m not particularly conceited about my physical beauty, nor do I suspect have I any reason to be, but cannot discern any sarcastic intent so I agree.

Returning from the Beachwalk, I sit down with Dario and ask him why the Sheraton Resort at Kuta is so awesome.

“We are right at the heart of Kuta, well known for its hustle and bustle of Bali. It is the part of Bali that never sleeps and with the opening of Beachwalk lifestyle centre, together with Sheraton Bali Kuta Resort, we are here to set the trend in sharing the new Kuta experience with the world,’’ he tells me.

“Our centralised location in Kuta provides us with the most amazing views of Kuta Beach, as well as the stunning sunset Kuta is ever known for.’’

I ask him about the hotel’s design, which has the lobby, bells and whistles around the back and bars and restaurants facing the famous strip.

“The design has been influenced by Bali’s nature, it is a whole new architecture never seen before in Bali. It’s inspired by the gentle rice paddy fields and allows natural sea breeze to flow into the resort to cool down the area. We are working with one of the best local law enforcement in Bali to ensure security is our priority, and Beachwalk has applied the same standard to ensure safety of our guests.’’

Finally, how awesome is it to be the manager of the newest, coolest hotel in Kuta, if not in all of Bali?

“It has definitely been an amazing experience so far, from putting together the team, to fine-tuning every single detail that has lead up to today has been an inspiring journey for all of us. The connected Beachwalk has definitely given us the advantage above our competition in terms of our location and also our awareness. In addition we have been working very closely with our ownership company – PT. Indonesian Paradise Island – to make Kuta the world’s gathering place, this is no small task and we couldn’t have done it without the local community support as well.’’

All too soon, it’s time for a final beer, champagne and cocktail then be poured into my luxury transfer vehicle for the trip to the airport.

But when my travels take me to Kuta, I will definitely be going back to the Sheraton Resort.

www.starwoodhotels.com/sheraton

Mat finish for the day ... Sea Sentosa

Imagine waking up and strolling across your own private deck for a morning swim in your private infinity pool.

Sea Sentosa is at Echo Beach, one of the best beaches in Bali and known by surfers all over the world. It is 45 minutes from the airport, just 15 minutes from Nirwana Golf and Country Club designed by Greg Norman, and 15 minutes from the cosmopolitan heart of Bali, Seminyak, home to Sentosa Private Villas and Spa, Ku De Ta, internationally famous restaurants and the best boutique shopping.

Surfers travel thousands of miles to surf Canggu, you only have to walk a few metres and choose between a beach break or reef break.

Opening in April 2013, the reort is the brainchild of Saxon Looker who has 21 years leading resort projects under his belt.

In 2007, Saxon completed the multi-award winning Sentosa Private Villas and Spa in Seminyak, now he is again redefining design driven luxury by assembling a cast of internationally renowned consultants and artists to create his most phenomenal project to date.

Asked recently what Lunch readers cold expect when they stay at the resort, Looker says: "They are in a resort that is on the edge of old Bali – 100m away are rice fields as far as the eye can see.''

The resort is a unique blend of contemporary Italian design, Balinese sensitivity, vertical gardens and world-renowned art.

An integrated resort set on 2.8ha, Sea Sentosa offers a choice of very generously sized one or two bedroom apartments and three bedroom penthouses. And has every facility and service you could wish for from a five star resort. An exclusive Beach Club and four beachfront restaurants within the resort will cater to international tastes and the Sea Sentosa Piazza will feature carefully selected cafes, restaurants and elegant fashion stores.

Without leaving Sea Sentosa there is a world of choice: where to swim, where to lounge and catch some sun, whether to dine casually at the beautifully designed Beach Club, or a little more formally in the French restaurant, or perhaps the Japanese, the Italian or the Mediterranean restaurant.

The simple choice could be to stay in the luxury of your own apartment and have your meal delivered; as a fully serviced resort you can enjoy 24-hour room service.

There is also a fully equipped medical centre, secure underground parking for more than 100 vehicles,  and 24 hour security.

Other facilities include:

• Kid's activity club
• Spa with treatments also available in your own apartment
• Beautifully appointed gymnasium
• Resort lagoon pool spanning three Olympic sized swimming pools
• Lush vertical gardens
• Private infinity edge swimming pools
• Private sundecks
• Beach club
• Sea Sentosa Piazza comprising restaurants, cafes, boutiques, specialty stores and delicatessen.

www.seasentosa.com/

Industry representatives gathered at the gala dinner, which has been dubbed the Oscars of the Indonesian Tourism Industry, to recognise outstanding success by Indonesia's tourism businesses.

General Manger Andrew Keating said: "On behalf of our loyal staff I am delighted to have The Villas recognised by the renowned Indonesia Travel & Tourism Award Foundation and look forward to continuing to build the strong brand position The Villas & Prana Spa already enjoys".

The Villas Bali Hotel & Spa has established itself as one of Bali's finest and most enchanting villa style hotel resorts.  The consistent level of service through high staff-to-guest ratios combined with an exceptional range of pampering treatments at its Prana Spa ensures a truly indulgent experience. The Villas Bali also joined the prestigious Trip Advisor award receipents list earlier this year, being voted in the Top 10 Relaxation/Spa Hotels across Asia.

Mr Keating said The Villas had invested strongly through innovation in a range of areas to keep the Villas & Prana Spa top of mind among potential visitors. 

"Spa culture has gained significant importance over the last few years and we made the conscious decision not to limit ourselves, we have created a great range of treatment options in line with the latest innovations and evolved The Villas into a sanctuary of well-being dedicated to relaxation," Mr Keating said.

Timed to coincide with the winning of such a major award, The Villas and Prana Spa has a special deal on offer for direct bookings only. 

For a holiday of 3 nights or more, each new booking will enjoy a complimentary 2 hour Ayurvedic Simple Bliss Package in Prana Spa for each adult within the booking.  

The booking must be made and taken between 18th November 2011 and 29th February 2012. Not available from the 19 of December 2011 to 5 January 2012, subject to availability.

Further information: www.thevillas.net

Lunch Magazine spoke with Craig Seaward and Raymond Saja, the heads of W Seminyak and Karma Kandara respectively, about the future of tourism on the island.

“Having lived here for many years and seen the rapid growth taking place since the early 90s, I feel Bali needs to slow the growth of development in line with demand and balance the need for good infrastructure and utilities, roads, urban planning, water and electricity to match the development taking place,’’ said Mr Seaward, the general manager of the recently opened $114 million W Spa and Retreat Seminyak.

“Who would ever think that we would get an elevated toll road in Bali. It seems disconnected for this amazing island, but soon to be a reality. It will be a sad day for Bali.’’

The new elevated tollway connecting Sanur and Nusa Dua-Benoa will commence construction in late 2011. Current estimates are that the project will require 18 months to complete. Developers are hoping to have the new tollway online in time for the 2013 APEC summit.

Mr Saja spoke in similar terms about the need to slow down, albeit about the infrastructure needs of a different region, Kandara, where his amazing resort straddles a lush jungle ravine on Bali’s southern coast.

Time to seek balance ... Mr Seaward

“Bali is in a bit of a limbo period right now. Some of the areas are transitioning,’’ Mr Saja told Lunch Magazine.

“Specifically this southern region. Right now we have a bunch of luxury properties here but we don’t have the local town developing.

“But that will happen. We will get small independent restaurants opening up and we will have a small Seminyak area as more volume and traffic comes to the area-  it has already started.

Mr Saja said the main problem was getting people to Bali to use all the additional room nights that had been created.

“This airport is tapped out at the moment, but they’re going to build an airport in north Bali, which will increase arrivals dramatically.’’

Resilient market ... Mr Saja

“Also when they build a bigger airport there will be long haul flights landing here.’’

He said the impact of the new cruise ship terminal in eastern Bali would be “huge’’.

“It’s all based on demand. Singapore Airlines runs four or five flights a day alone.

“During the high season you can get a room but you can’t get to Bali. That’s why they have to stop building. We have enough room nights to cope with demand for the next five years.’’

Both men also agree on the amazing resilience of the Bali tourism market.

Mr Seaward said: “Bali is a resilient destination and has recovered strongly since the Bali bombings in October 2002 and 2005.

“Its strong international appeal, diversity of culture, value for money and proximity to Asia and Australia is driving the demand and at present the island is doing very well indeed. Record numbers have been arriving in Bali with Australia now being the number one feeder market to the island. Obviously the strong Australian dollar is having a positive effect making for a great value for money holiday in paradise for the Australian market.’’

Mr Saja agreed: “It’s going from strength to strength.’’

“From what I’ve seen, Bali continues to rate as the No 1 island destination in the world in various publications.’’

He said things like the novel and movie Eat Pray Love also helped a lot.

“The Australian dollar being so strong at the moment means it’s significantly cheaper for Australians to come to Bali than go to a neighbouring state.

“There are always things that are upsetting but the business bounces back. Bali has proven to be amazingly resilient.

“Just when I think they are going to stop building hotels more and more of the big guns come in. It does a lot for the destination as well to have some of the big brands like W.

“For them to come in is huge. People say if there’s a W there I’ll go.

For example if they build a W at Koh Samui, and I guarantee the American market does not know Koh Samui, but if there’s a W there it draws attention to it.’’

W’s Seaward said the property brought a new style of hotel to Bali.

“We own this space at present, as we are so very different and distinctive from the other properties on the island,’’ he said.

“W tends to help develop the locations/destinations we open in, and I think that we are doing that for Seminyak at present with all the development happening on the roads around the hotel. This is good in that it offers guests more choices and opportunities in close proximity to the hotel be that shopping, restaurants or entertainment.’’

“We have had an amazing take-off, and the last 5 months have been fantastic for a newly opened hotel. We are already topping the 55 per cent occupancy mark and the balance of year bookings are looking strong … watch this space!’’

 Jonathan Porter

Emphasis on relaxing, not boogeying ... one of the infinity pools

IMAGINE a resort that has been built to blend in with the environment, where the surrounding land has been treated with kindness instead of lust.

Then imagine you have a personal concierge for your stay in a three-bedroom villa, attentive hosts who will drop everything at a moment’s notice and arrive with all the makings of a barbecue at  your own personal pool and take away the luncheon things and empty bottles.

Then add to your imaginings some of the most spectacular coastline on the Island of the Gods, Bali.

Unplug and unwind ... the Wellness Spa

Are you done imagining? Then drop what you are doing and book a flight to Bali and a week or two at Karma Kandara resort.

But only go there if your idea of a holiday is to total reeelaxation with three Es with your life partner in complete opulent luxury with great food, cliffside jacuzzis, saunas and hot stone massages in a treatment room 500 feet above the Indian Ocean while diaphanous curtains waft in the tropical breeze.

You can read about my massage at the Karma Kandara Wellness spa here.

I’m tapping out this review by the plunge pool. It’s after sundown and the lights of my three bedroom villa shimmer on the pool’s gentle surface, onto which a petal has just fallen,  chased down by a huge butterfly as it augers in. The night is very warm and the pool is too deep for me to stand on my feet in and keep my head above water. Time for a dip I think.

Ok I’m back. The master bedroom is upstairs but I’m yet to make it up there (I’m batching it). There is a full kitchen and laundry – these villas are mostly privately owned and the lucky landlords get a hefty return on their investments as well as the chance to stay in their holdings for a few weeks every year.

Karma Kandara is also the perfect place for a tycoon to unwind after perhaps working a bit too hard.

For the duration of my stay I have eschewed indoor bathing facilities, (including the upstairs spa) the whole time I’m here, preferring the outside shower. A few times a day I bathe in a warm tropical downfall  surrounded by a canopy of – since botany is not my strong suit – I’m going to call “huge tropical colorful flowers’’, as the Lord intended.

The Karma at Mykonos has influenced the design of Karma Kandara, with its Mediterranean trellises, Grecian arches and  meandering paths with a few jungle creepers thrown in, says general manager Raymond Saja, who has been here since construction began.

The footpaths are made of blocks of limestone extracted during the construction of this amazing place and the limestone walls give the impression of barely holding back the verdant jungle.

I’m no geology buff, but I’m pretty sure limestone is made from ancient sandy beaches compressed over time after crustal shifts force the beaches to higher ground, so it can be said that everywhere you walk in Karma Kandara you are treading on 500 million year old beaches thrust up to higher ground by crustal upheavals, and rather younger beaches when you go for a swim in the ocean.

The resort is very laid back: the attitude here is to unwind, not boogie hard. Karma Kandara is built on both sides of a spectacular ravine, at the bottom of which is a brook, which tumbles down the mountain into the ocean. Bridges link both sides of the resort and on the bridges are signs bearing the legend: “Don’t feed or tease the monkeys, they are grumpy and fat enough.’’

Don't feed the monkeys ... one of the bridges over the ravine

From every villa you can hear the distant surf pounding. The only other sound is the occasional rustle of palm fronds in the soft breezes and the greetings hotel workers give guests as they go quietly about their tasks.

For lunch I head down to Nammo’s Beach Club, which involves a one minute ride down the hillside in a contraption (there is a path if you’re feeling energetic, I prefer to conserve my  vigor for higher pursuits).

The fare on offer is laid out on ice. I pause to check out the oysters, shrimp and scampi fresh from the ocean a few feet away and chat with Karma Kandara’s executive chef Steven Grande.

I ask him about the rewards of working here (it’s eight months since the Ohian arrived).

“Even in the evening it’s a view unlike anything in the world,’’ he tells me.

I opt for fried calamari fried capers, tuna carpaccio with green apple and a couple of scampi split and thrown on the barbecue with some local water spinach tossed in Balinese spices.

All the seafood is local and the organic meats are flown in from around the world. To say the seafood is fresh is a mighty understatement and it’s a song with a glass of Australian semillion sauvignon blanc.

Aside from Nimmos, there is also Di Mare Restaurant and Temple Lounge – an open air bar set on the rooftop of Di Mare Restaurant, with its tapas and North African feel.

Rewards are self evident ... Saja

I head up there to make some outrageous claims with some new friends after some Balinese spicy chicken and a few rum runner cocktails at Nimmo’s on the beach. Let me assure my new friends if they read this, I did not actually invent the question mark.

The next day I take luncheon at with Karma’s general manager Raymond Saja at Di Mare restaurant.

The New Yorker says the blending in approach has paid off for Karma.

“With a lot of other properties just come in and level the land and then build. We did the opposite,” he says.

“We built around everything that was already here. And built it into the contours of the land. The spa villas are a perfect example,’’ he said indicating the structure clinging to the hillside across the ravine

I’m supping on an ice cold gazpacho with Jimbaran Bay crab and crème fraiche. I dab my lips with snowy linen and ask about the rewards.

Come for the view, stay for the great food ... Grande

His hand sweeps over the expanse of the coastline and he says with a smile: “Reward? you can see it.’’

Jalan Villa Kandara, Banjar Wijaya Kusuma, Ungasan, Bali, 80362 Indonesia
Email : res@karmakandara.com / sales@karmakandara.com
Phone : +62 361 848 2200
Fax : +62 361 848 2244

2am spa treatment? No problemo at the 24-hour Away Spa, W Seminyak

After I dump my bags in my room and scrub off the jet grime I stroll out on the deck to check out the crowd. It’s early evening and less than 200m away the Indian Ocean pounds on to the sand. I gaze at a retreat devoted to pure luxury for a diverse crowd of sybarites ranging from expats, to young local hipsters, to singles, to families, to … how can I put this; some very happy sculpted and manscaped chaps lying dangerously close to each other by the pool.

I’m here for the retreat’s official opening and I’m kicking back in the aptly named WooBar until the evening’s light show begins. When it does begin it explodes in colour. The W’s resident DJ and musical advisor Michaeangelo L’Acqua is spinning a Paris is Burning remix. The air is so thick and humid and spicy you could drink it.

W's Rosemarie Domdom and Arnaud Champenois

Later over a quiet ale, I ask L’Acqua how important it is to get the music mix right.

“It’s exceptionally important because it’s the unconscious connection you have to the physical realm,” he says.

“So if the music is wrong it doesn’t create symmetry with your experience.

“When you hear music in its most perfect form you embrace it wholeheartedly within the first listen.”

“If you hear the music and you say my God what is that?  I love it, you are making unconscious connections in your brain.”

With L’Acqua having convinced me there is a science behind the turntables I decide the time is right to struggle towards a place where I can lie horizontally for awhile.

Back in my top floor ocean view room, I peer across to a dark horizon and drink in the cooler early morning tropical air and follow it with a San Miguel chaser as a nightcap. Shadows formed from starlight bring back childhood memories of my own beach house holidays.

This beach house compares favorably with my grandmother’s beach house on the far south coast of New South Wales, with its bare timber floors, clawed bath and gruelling 30-second walk to the pristine Orion Beach of my youth.

W adds to its ambience with day beds and lounging areas and a skylight over the enormous shower and huge bath, the latter hewn out of solid stone.

The next morning I hit the buffet in Fire restaurant for breakfast and the resort’s director of cuisine Ian Lovie is personally urging people to try new and exotic flavors. Although my plate is already piled with dim sum, suckling pig, blinis, caviar and other sundry items, Lovie, the voluble and gentle Scottish giant bends almost double to pat me on the shoulder to assure me I’m barely eating enough to hold body and soul together.

Next stop: he facilities which include me spending quality research time at the landscaped tropical Wet pool.

Unsurprisingly, a place called Sweat is a gymnasium – oddly enough I have always called the gym the sweating place and should have copyrighted the concept. If you fancy a facial or body wrap at 2am (and who doesn’t) it’s no problem at the 24-hour Away Spa.

Dining options include Fire and Starfish Bloo as well as more intimate dining experiences such as 1 Below which features a private room where a personal chef and wine expert will design a customized menu pairing original dishes with the ideal wine.  Guests can catch a dazzling sunset at Ice, a cool beachside spot where you can enjoy frozen cocktails or chilled champagne along with tapas and a delectable raw bar.  At Cellar, you can slip behind the velvet rope and experience a personalized selection of wine tastings in the comfort of W Bali’s premium wine cellar.

Time to reflect ... the Eat Pray Love guru Ketut Liyer with a W guest

Well fortified after my Ian Lovie approved breakfast,  I opt to take a catamaran tour rather than leaping at the chance to meet the bloke from Eat Pray Love; oddly enough, that tour isn’t particularly popular with the fellows.

The 18m cat from X Sails Bali takes me and a few close friends out to Crystal Bay.

Onboard the cocktails were mixed by W Seminyak’s chief mixologist Joseph Boroski. The first mojito goes down at 11.30 in the am, and by the time we all arrived back at dusk we were all very tired and emotional indeed.

During the cruise I take time to have a private chat with George, our skipper and owner of our vessel.

George and I sit on the stern, I ask him how he came to be in Bali running a beautiful boat among the islands and over crystaline waters.

“God loves me,’’ is his declaration.

With the blue waters gently smoothing in our wake as we cruise the islands around Bali, it’s difficult to argue with him, nor am I disposed to do so.

W Retreat & Spa Bali – Seminyak

Jl. Petitenget

Seminyak,

Bali

80361

Indonesia

Phone: (62)(361) 4738106

www.whotels.com/baliseminyak

X Catamaran trip to Crystal Bay: guests can book directly with Whatever/Whenever service at W Bali or go to http://www.xsails-bali.com/

Jonathan Porter in Bali

What can I say about the new W Retreat and Spa at Seminyak on the Island of the Gods, Bali? Except possibly “Wow!’’

What began with a chance glance at an ad in on onboard airline magazine by owner Magda Hutagalung 11 years ago has come to fruition as one of the world’s most unique and quintessentially cool hotels.

Ms Hutagalung says she is proud of what she has achieved, saying she and her team had turned nothing into something.

“I was on a flight to LA when 11 years ago I saw a mag which had W advertising; it looked so great,” she says.

“Now that I have brought the W to Bali it feels like I have turned nothing into something.”

W Seminyak manager Craig Seaward says, there is really no competition in this end of the market for what W is doing.

“Every general manager says his property is unique,’’ he tells Lunch Magazine.

So what separates your property? “The cutting edge design, the uniqueness of the property and the fact that there is nothing remotely like this in Bali anywhere has really distinguished us as a player that really owns this particular space in Bali.’’

Mr Seward says the 7.8ha property was built on the site of an existing hotel.

“We tapped into the water and power – we like to say it’s a recycled product. There is no additional scar on Bali.’’

The 158 rooms include garden retreats, ocean facing retreats, Wow suites, extreme Wow suites as well as one, two and three bedroom villa retreats.

“Also there are our restaurants; Fire and Starfish Bloo. With Starfish Bloo I don’t think there is anywhere else in Bali where there are Indian Ocean waves crashing within 15m of your dining table.’’

W: flirty and cool ... Ms Ziegler

Mr Seaward says the W takes its social responsibility to the island seriously, with a recycling project, and by supporting 6000 children in Bali who are HIV positive through its charity ball and other community projects.

The lovely Eva Ziegler who maintains that “W is flirty, cool and sexy, but never dirty’’, says the Wet pool is somewhere people can unplug, which even W’s guests do sometimes.

Ms Ziegler says W Seminyak is the 41st fantastic location where people can go to experience the W brand.

“We are targeting the trendsetters with our hotels as well as retreats. It is basically the people who are interested in the latest, newest, hippest coolest thing and what’s next,’’ she says.

“They are very fashion savvy, very design savvy. As well as having the notion that they have to see and be seen. We are giving them inside access to the world of Wow.

‘The W Seminyak Hotel and Retreat is extraordinary. We want people to escape from the world of the ordinary into the world of the extraordinary. That is our mission.’’

She says there is no danger of W becoming a “cookie cutter brand’’ as the luxury giant expands around the globe.

“We are keeping the boutique feel by having each hotel have its own design personality,’’ she says.

“Each hotel has its own design narrative. It starts with an insight into the location that it is interpreted in a W way, in a playful way, but also in a cutting edge way.’’

One way W is achieving this goal was turning the traditional F&B (food and beverage) concept on its head.

“It’s now B and F – it’s the cocktail culture. It’s about seeing and being seen.”

In order to achieve this W collaborates with bar gurus as well as food gurus and music gurus such as internationally renowned DJ  Michealangelo L’Acqua.

“The mantra here and around the world is whatever the guest wants whenever they want it. As long as it’s legal. We will fulfil every wish.’’

Sail away to Crystal Bay ... The X Sails catamaran

“People ask me if it’s a certain age group we are targeting and it’s not, the person can be from 20 to 60 it’s not an age, it’s a mindset.

“Our guests are pushing the boundaries, interested in what’s next – jetsetters who are traveling the world, who want the latest in IT, in fashion and in other fast-changing industries.’’

W Retreat & Spa Bali – Seminyak

Jl. Petitenget

Seminyak,

Bali

80361

Indonesia

Phone: (62)(361) 4738106

www.whotels.com/baliseminyak

X Catamaran trip to Crystal Bay: guests can book directly with Whatever/Whenever service at W Bali or go to http://www.xsails-bali.com/