Picture yourself in a romantic hideaway nestled amid tea plantations and the rolling hills of the Cameron Highlands, one of Malaysia’s oldest and most extensive hill stations, where grand colonial elegance reins supreme.

Romantic…Cameron Highlands tea plantation

It’s not hard to imagine – an emerald landscape with expansive strawberry farms and lush greenery, majestic jungle trails and Tudor-styled cottages sprinkled across a picturesque plateau that is some 1,500 metres above sea level.

With its cool climate and fresh air, this seems the perfect place to appreciate the healing powers of the humble tealeaf, bask in the tranquility of a verdant jungle or, perhaps, even solve a murder mystery?

The Cameron Highlands Resort, a boutique property with 56 rooms and an 18-hole golf course, offers more than just your average mountain escape with its Murder Mystery in the Misty Mountains experience.

Exploring trails, tails and traditions, the exclusive whodunit unravels an exciting plot that exists nowhere else in the world. Set in the 1960s, Murder Mystery in the Misty Mountains features Jim Thompson, the legendary American businessman known as the Thai ‘Silk King’ who mysteriously disappeared while holidaying at the Moonlight Bungalow in Cameron Highlands in March 1967.

Creature comforts… Deluxe Room

The cool mountain air and rugged landscape set the stage for the murder mystery. Character briefings are delivered before arrival at the resort and after pre-dinner cocktails, the mystery unravels in an elegant dining room. Murders are committed and weapons are found in between courses, with a good dose of blackmailing on the side.

Guests rush through the halls of the extensive property in the dead of night, looking for clues and making sly barters in hushed whispers.

The evening culminates with the voting and selection of Best Performer, Super Sleuth, Best Costume and Wealthiest Player.

Coupled with four-poster beds and suites with panoramic views, a sumptuous Traditional English Afternoon Tea, and an indulgent spa treatment at the award-winning Spa Village, the Cameron Highlands Resort makes for an enthralling weekend retreat.

www.cameronhighlandsresort.com

Mark Eggleton

Dripping with sweat and on the verge of hallucinating I sit and squirm on a heat conducting marble slab in the Oriental Hammam inside Dubai’s One&Only Royal Mirage resort. Underneath me is the heat source for the steam room and I shift uncomfortably while wondering when I’ll begin to fry through my rather fetching paper y-fronts.

One&only... the best Hammam in the Middle East

Across the small room on the cooler timber bench are two largish chaps who could be gorillas in the mist due to my current hallucinatory state. They are in fact two expat Libyans who sense the pasty, sweating white man can only speak English so they change languages for my benefit.

Dropping their intense Arabic conversation the larger well-waxed chap says: “Gaddafi’s son, Saif Al Islam, he threw the best party in Monaco a few years ago on the biggest yacht in the harbour. He spent $40 million US and there were so many beautiful hookers for all of us – more than one each.”

They both looked across at me hoping to elicit some sort of response and I didn’t disappoint … “Was each one more beautiful than the last,” I enquired.

“Ah yes … all models … supermodels. He knew how to throw a party. So much money and many women and drugs. Very good for Libya. He was a good ambassador for the country. Everyone went to his parties – princes, politicians and celebrities.

“Any women guests?” “No just the hookers,” my newfound Libyan friend replied.

I was about to ask where Saify-boy might have acquired the coin to throw such a monstrous party when my masseur returned to take me further inside the hammam for a solid scrub. I’d had my pineapple, mint and apple juice and was keen for a vigorous rubdown.

Time to relax... One&Only spa

A massage is one of my favourite rituals after a flight. An hour or two of complete bliss while stiff muscles and tight joints are slowly worked back to their prime. I’d been in Dubai for around 24-hours and had just interviewed the tennis player Roger Federer. He had exuded the detached bonhomie of the truly disinterested as I asked about his career, passions and love of Moet & Chandon.

As a reward for not doing a whole lot I had decided a traditional Moroccan massage might be in order and it was proving to be quite an excellent experience.

The One&Only spa is a complete oasis – a haven of winding corridors turning this way and that with dramatic archways leading into the Hammam. Once inside the calming sound of running water echoes from the ornately tiled walls and a richly scented fug of steam blurs the vision as sweat pours out of every pore. It’s oddly invigorating because of my deluded belief that every bead of sweat was a toxin being forcibly escorted from my inner being.

I’m led into a small room and lie down on a pleasantly warm marble slab where the attendant slowly washes me with cool water. He then applies with gusto a covering of Moroccan black soap and scrubs rather vigorously with an exfoliating glove that draws away dead skin. There’s plenty.

He holds up the glove at regular intervals to show me the thick layer of ooze I happily seemed to wear every day. A lot seemed to be coming off and I wondered if so much of my skin was dead, maybe I was too. Maybe I’m a zombie – it would certainly account for my pastiness.

Exotic... One&Only spa

When I’m reduced to a few vital organs contained within a skeleton the masseur stops. It’s back to the steam room. Unfortunately, my Libyan friends have gone. I’m alone and slowly start to construct a political thriller in my head. Yes it involves Libyans, hookers, drugs and a couple of nuclear weapons and it’s all set in Dubai – a city designed by spoilt billionaires who never grew up.

Just as my thriller gets to the interesting bit my masseur beckons. He ushers me back to my private slab for a eucalyptus ghassoul body wrap and a black Yemen honey facial before a massage and final cool hand wash.

From there I was led back into a chillout area and served Moroccan tea with dates. I had never felt so calm, clean and relaxed. All I could hear was the sound of running water and the gentle slap of flip-flops on tile.

While sipping the tea and slowly sliding into a daydream, a gentleman from Abu Dhabi suggests a game of chess. We share tea and dates while chatting about Dubai and the state of its finances and construct a good mannered diplomatic stalemate on the chessboard.

After he took my Queen he remarked that this was the “Best Hammam in the Middle East. I fly from Abu Dhabi to come here every Saturday.”

There was no argument from me as long as he didn’t mention the progeny of despots or hookers or super yachts and blow. I just wanted to be in my happy place.

royalmirage.oneandonlyresorts.com/

Lauren Arena

The words ‘old world charm’ can conjure up images of stuffy cupboards and dusty sideboards, so as I walk into Varenna – a restored 20th century homestead in the Blue Mountains – I’m pleasantly surprised to see its ornate cornices, beautifully crafted antique cabinets, elaborate silverware, and billowing velvet curtains. 

Luxurious... Varenna

The allure of four-poster beds and glowing fireplaces entices me further into the Victorian residence (circa 1906) where a long hallway passes three bedrooms before reaching a spacious kitchen, breakfast room and leafy courtyard.

Varenna is like a treasure trove of historic trinkets and fancy fixtures, restored to its former glory as a luxury guesthouse nestled in the rugged mountains and leafy village of Leura, just two hours from Sydney.

As I make my way to the formal lounge area, a complementary bottle of Sauvignon Blanc is waiting for me, next to a crystal decanter of port and an array of individually-wrapped chocolates on a silver tray. It’s intricate details like these that bring Varenna to life – not to mention breakfast supplies in the kitchen – eggs and bacon in the fridge as well as cocoa and marshmallows in the pantry. The heated bathroom floor engenders the need to warmly frolic barefoot across the soothing checkered tiles in-between lingering sessions in the tub.

Heaven... Varenna's original tub

The glorious bathtub, with its 24-carat gold claw feet, is a Varenna original and is perhaps my new favourite place on earth – its healing powers dissolve the pressures of modern-day life in an instant and make 21st century stress disappear.

The glamour of yesteryear melds effortlessly with the comforts of today in this luxury homestead and, as I peer out the window, so does the majestic scenery.

Around the corner, Bygone Beautys is home to the world’s largest private teapot collection. There are over 3000 teapots on display in and around a tearoom that serves a very traditional Devonshire Tea. It’s like a sacred cave of antique collectibles, fine china and silverware, albeit a little kitsch and claustrophobic.

Poetic... Everglades garden theatre

I wander over to the nearby Everglades Gardens – through 13 acres of European-style gardens and native bushland, terraced lawns and winding paths that lead to an historic 1930s house that oozes art deco flare. There is a tearoom, of course, with sweet treats baked by volunteers from the National Trust of Australia who help run Everglades house and maintain its poetic gardens.

If its 20th century glamour you’re after, then Darley’s is the place to be. Now a famed restaurant Darley’s was once the home of Sir Fredrick Darley, the sixth Chief Justice of New South Wales who commissioned the grand country house in Katoomba in 1890.

Like Varenna, Darley’s was recently restored and refurbished with specially designed gilt and onyx scroll wallpaper, chandeliers and plush velvet dining chairs. The dining room has an elegant, sensual character – perfect for an intimate dinner.

Executive Chef Lee Kwiez serves an eclectic food and wine mix with a strong focus on local produce. I decide to be daring and try the confit of ocean trout with spanner crab, beetroot caviar and horseradish cream; followed by a main of streamed dory with Dashi custard and crisp lotus root – well worth the risk. 

But be sure to save room for dessert, it’s just as impressive as the rest of the menu and the spiced pear fool with macaroon crumble and pear granita brings a touch of sunshine to the wintry mountains.

A short train ride from Sydney will deliver you to Varenna's doorstep while the Blue Mountains Explorer tour bus will take you through Katoomba, to Echo Point and to the ever-popular Three Sisters.

Varenna is one of four properties offered by Mountain Whispers luxury accommodation.

Blue Mountains Tourism

www.visitbluemountains.com.au

Mountain Whispers

+61 (0)430 496 755

www.mountainwhispers.com.au

Bygone Beautys

20-22 Grose Street, Leura NSW 2780

www.bygonebeautys.com.au

Darley’s

Lilianfels Ave, Katoomba NSW 2780

www.darleysrestaurant.com.au

Everglades Historic House and Gardens

37 Evergaldes Avenue, Leura NSW 2780

www.everglades.org.au

Lauren Arena

Cosy… The Lounge at Lilianfels

“Crack. Hiss. Pop.” The fireplace is ablaze, warming me up from the outside in. But the heat of the flames isn’t the only thing keeping out the cold. I’m sinking into a soft, spongy sofa, next to a collection of plush floral cushions and a giant teddy bear named Darley.

I’m sitting in The Lounge at Lilianfels Resort and Spa, Blue Mountains. Darley and I get well acquainted while sipping tea and treating ourselves to piping hot scones with jam and clotted cream, chicken sandwiches, rhubarb tarts and other bite-size treats on the tiered platters that arrive as part of the hotel’s high tea menu.

Now before you pass judgement on a grown woman travelling with a teddy bear, Darley doesn’t belong to me. He is somewhat of a mascot at the resort, named after Sir Fredrick Darley, the sixth Chief Justice of New South Wales and original owner of Lilianfels, who commissioned the grand country house in 1890.

Of course there’s been some changes and additions since then, but a few features have lingered on to tell the tale. Artwork depicting hunting scenes and photos of the Darleys hang on the walls, along with one of Lady Darley’s spirit drawings of her daughter Lillian, who died young from tuberculosis. However I’m told by the hotel’s General Manager, Brian McHenry, that Lillian still makes an appearance every now and then – I only hope he’s joking.

Tartan carpets, a billiards room, and a sun-soaked library where you can sit back with a good book or read the paper in blissful silence set the scene and I feel as though I’m in a stately English home – not in the middle of Australia’s (World Heritage listed) Blue Mountains National Park.

The 85-room resort is perched on the very edge of Echo Point in Katoomba, with dramatic views over Jamieson Valley and the legendary Three Sisters. The view really is sublime – just a stone’s throw away from Sydney, but it feels like a world of its own.

A decorative touch… Deluxe Resort View Room

As one of Australia’s most recognised landmarks, over time the Three Sisters has transformed Katoomba’s sleepy mining village into a thriving tourist hub, alive with curious city slickers and busloads of international visitors.

But once I enter the Lilianfels estate, all the hustle and bustle melts away in an instant. It’s midday and the sun is shining, but the wind is cold as ice, so a spare jacket doesn’t go astray.

The gardens are lush and green and, beyond its walls, surrounded by untamed bushland. The National Park has a maze of walking tracks that twist and turn around the mountains, and the crisp mountain air is conducive to an afternoon hike – but I don’t wander off too far, the mountains here are made of conductive, iron rock, so a compass is pretty much useless.

Like the rest of the hotel, my room is beautifully decorated to resemble a bygone era. The canopied king bed is most inviting and while I sit behind the large work desk I find myself somewhat mesmerised by the ornate dusty pink wallpaper – its very pretty, featuring scenes out of a fable, repeated over and over until it covers the entire room, the drapes and even a cushion.

For a little R&R… Lilianfels indoor heated pool

I wander off to the hotel’s spa, tucked away in its hushed basement, where candle-lit treatment rooms, herbal tea and freshly cut fruit await. I indulge in a mango and pineapple facial, which the therapist informs me, is part of the new Sothys seasonal range. After 45 minutes of heaven I leave refreshed and smelling indeed like a pineapple.

No detox break would be complete without a leisurely swim, and Lilianfels has a heated indoor and outdoor pool. There’s a tennis court and fitness centre too, but I’m not looking to over exert myself, so I opt for a stroll around the gardens before dinner.

The hotel’s famed restaurant, Darleys, is the place to go for an intimate dinner for two, but if you travel a few minutes down the road to Leura, there are quite a few quaint little cafés and restaurants.

The best view in town… The Three Sisters

I dine alone at Leura Garage, a former car garage turned contemporary café. Its relaxed atmosphere and rustic decor compliment a menu of pizza and share plates. I order croquettes to start, made with purple potato, pancetta, provolone and confit garlic. They’re simple but tasty, and very colourful. Then onto a scotch fillet steak, sliced delicately and splayed across a wooden board to reveal its pink centre. Wonderfully cooked with echalottes port and beetroot butter, it goes down a treat with a glass of Robert Stein Reserve cabernet sauvignon.

When I return to my room at the hotel, the bed sheets have been turned down and a pair of spongy white slippers placed neatly beside the nightstand. I fling myself onto the bed and dissolve into the puffy, marshmallow-soft mattress – ahhh – if only I’d brought my stuffed bunny along to keep me company.

Lilianfels Resort and Spa

Lilianfels Avenue,

Katoomba
 NSW

Tel: +612 4780 1200

www.lilianfels.com.au

Leura Garage

84 Railway Parade,

Leura NSW, 2780

Tel: +612 4784 3391

www.leuragarage.com.au 

Nordic Wilderness in Åre

In the wild... Copperhill Mountain Lodge

After hitting the slopes, the hotel’s award winning spa is the perfect place to relax, with saunas, hot baths and lounges.  The daily tasting menu at the hotel's restaurant, Vaajese, focuses on the traditional craft of Nordic cooking and will definitely fill you up after a long day on the slopes.

COPPERHILL MOUNTAIN LODGE
Åre Björnen
83013 Åre
Sweden

Swiss Precision in Adelboden

Serene... The Cambrian

In the alpine village of Adelboden is The Cambrian, a Swiss mountain getaway with a sleek, modern design. Blazing fireplaces, cow-hide stools and walls crafted from wood chips add a nurturing touch to this luxury hotel, smack bang in the centre of one of Switzerland’s premier ski destinations.

The hotel’s spa is a must – take a dip in the outdoor hot pool for a bit of self-rejuvenation and gaze at the surrounding valleys and snow-capped mountains. Another highlight is the serene winter garden extending out from the lobby, the perfect spot for après-ski drinks and basking in the tender winter sun. 

THE CAMBRIAN
Dorfstrasse 7
3715 Adelboden
Switzerland

Après-Ski in Verbier

All about après-ski... Hotel Nevai

In Verbier, the heart of the Swiss Alps, Hotel Nevaï stands out as an icon for winter chic. Drawing its name from the ancient Patois word for “snow”, the hotel is surrounded by over 400 kilometres of ski trials as well as Verbier's notorious après-ski social scene. If you want to be seen, the hotel's Farm Club is the place to be.

From fashion shows to international DJs, this party hub has kept the music playing for over 40 years. But if a quiet night in is what you're after, the hotel's Lounge Bar has an extensive cocktail and champagne list.

HOTEL NEVAI
Route de Verbier Station 55
1936
Verbier
Switzerland

True Legends in Zermatt

Close to heaven... The Omnia

High above the snow-laden roofs of Zermatt lies The Omnia, a modern hideaway that sits serenely in the shadow of the legendary Matterhorn, arguably Switzerland’s most famous mountain.  Most of the guestrooms feature superlative views of the Matterhorn from private balconies.

Zermatt has over 320 kilometers of trails open in the winter, and is a year-round ski destination, with 365 days of snow per year. The hotel’s Cavern – a breathtaking conference center by day and lounge bar by night – sits over a sea of water in a man-made cave; the ideal retreat to let the day pass.

THE OMNIA
Auf dem Fels
3920 Zermatt
Switzerland

Contemporary Luxury in Kappl

Fashion forward... Zhero

Extravagance, fashion, and contemporary luxury combine at the new Zhero – Ischgl/Kappl, opening this December in Austria’s Tyrol. Incorporating Tyrolean tradition and innovative architecture, the hotel's 78 rooms combine contemporary design (featuring custom-made pieces from Italian designers Minotti and Bottega Veneta) with the comfort of home. 

The hotel is ideally situated between the ski destinations Kappl and Ischgl and offers guests a limousine shuttle service between locations.

ZHERO – ISCHGL/KAPPL
Wiese 687
6555
Kappl
Austria

www.designhotels.com/winter_wonderland

Kenya is one of few places where Mother Nature still reigns supreme. For me, it’s the wildlife – those wondrous beasts we gawk at with equal amounts of fear and admiration – that makes a visit to Kenya truly worthwhile.

Majestic... Laikipia Plateau

The Laikipia Plateau is one of the country’s lesser-known wildlife areas.

Stretching from the foothills of Mount Kenya to the shores of Lake Baringo, the plateau is divided into huge wildlife conservancies, and is home to more endangered species than anywhere else in East Africa.It's the place to see Jackson’s hartebeest, Beisa oryx, Waller's gazelle, and Somali ostrich. 

But in amongst the various wildlife populations are a plethora of ranches and camps where luxury travellers can get up close and personal with Kenya’s rare desert species.

Luxury eco-lodge... Borana

Borana Lodge, the inspiration behind Disney’s The Lion King, is an obvious choice. 

Home to the Dyer family for three generations, the lodge houses eight cottages within the vast Ewaso ecosystem and overlooks the Samangua Valley and lake, where large elephants populations often enjoy a quick dip.

Whether you’re on the lookout for the endangered black rhino, or searching for Gravy’s zebra,  a bush dinner on Pride Rock at sundown is a must.

Lemarti's Camp is another gem – a little-known designer camp established by Anna Trzebinski and her Samburu warrior husband Lemarti.

Situated on the banks of the Ewaso Nyiro river, Lemarti’s camp takes camp-goers off the beaten track – literally. There are no safari vehicles or armed guards here and guests walk through the jungle with Samburu warriors who only carry traditional weapons.

In the wild... Joy's Camp

Five stylish safari tents with ensuite bathrooms open to the skies as Lemarti encourages cultural interaction with both the local tribesmen and the land.

Like Lemarti's, Joy’s Camp is in amongst the arid lands of the Samburu. The ten chic canvas bedrooms have breathtaking views of the surrounding hills and overlook a large natural spring where elephant and lion jostle for watering rights with herds of buffalo. 

Each tent has its own private veranda, ideal for game viewing, and is uniquely decorated with handmade glass and vibrant fabrics of the local nomadic tribes.

The camp is built on the site of Joy Adamson’s tented home in Shaba National Reserve, the same place Penny the leopard, the herione of Joy's last book, called home.  

Tented luxury... Richard's Camp

Set amongst a grove of enormous African olive trees, Richard's Camp overlooks the open plains characteristic of the Mara, where local wildlife is a frequent addition to the campsite.

At night, guests can dine in the bush alongside the hippo pools and then head back to camp on a night safari with the chance of spotting the elusive zorilla or genet cat. 

www.magicalkenya.com

2am spa treatment? No problemo at the 24-hour Away Spa, W Seminyak

After I dump my bags in my room and scrub off the jet grime I stroll out on the deck to check out the crowd. It’s early evening and less than 200m away the Indian Ocean pounds on to the sand. I gaze at a retreat devoted to pure luxury for a diverse crowd of sybarites ranging from expats, to young local hipsters, to singles, to families, to … how can I put this; some very happy sculpted and manscaped chaps lying dangerously close to each other by the pool.

I’m here for the retreat’s official opening and I’m kicking back in the aptly named WooBar until the evening’s light show begins. When it does begin it explodes in colour. The W’s resident DJ and musical advisor Michaeangelo L’Acqua is spinning a Paris is Burning remix. The air is so thick and humid and spicy you could drink it.

W's Rosemarie Domdom and Arnaud Champenois

Later over a quiet ale, I ask L’Acqua how important it is to get the music mix right.

“It’s exceptionally important because it’s the unconscious connection you have to the physical realm,” he says.

“So if the music is wrong it doesn’t create symmetry with your experience.

“When you hear music in its most perfect form you embrace it wholeheartedly within the first listen.”

“If you hear the music and you say my God what is that?  I love it, you are making unconscious connections in your brain.”

With L’Acqua having convinced me there is a science behind the turntables I decide the time is right to struggle towards a place where I can lie horizontally for awhile.

Back in my top floor ocean view room, I peer across to a dark horizon and drink in the cooler early morning tropical air and follow it with a San Miguel chaser as a nightcap. Shadows formed from starlight bring back childhood memories of my own beach house holidays.

This beach house compares favorably with my grandmother’s beach house on the far south coast of New South Wales, with its bare timber floors, clawed bath and gruelling 30-second walk to the pristine Orion Beach of my youth.

W adds to its ambience with day beds and lounging areas and a skylight over the enormous shower and huge bath, the latter hewn out of solid stone.

The next morning I hit the buffet in Fire restaurant for breakfast and the resort’s director of cuisine Ian Lovie is personally urging people to try new and exotic flavors. Although my plate is already piled with dim sum, suckling pig, blinis, caviar and other sundry items, Lovie, the voluble and gentle Scottish giant bends almost double to pat me on the shoulder to assure me I’m barely eating enough to hold body and soul together.

Next stop: he facilities which include me spending quality research time at the landscaped tropical Wet pool.

Unsurprisingly, a place called Sweat is a gymnasium – oddly enough I have always called the gym the sweating place and should have copyrighted the concept. If you fancy a facial or body wrap at 2am (and who doesn’t) it’s no problem at the 24-hour Away Spa.

Dining options include Fire and Starfish Bloo as well as more intimate dining experiences such as 1 Below which features a private room where a personal chef and wine expert will design a customized menu pairing original dishes with the ideal wine.  Guests can catch a dazzling sunset at Ice, a cool beachside spot where you can enjoy frozen cocktails or chilled champagne along with tapas and a delectable raw bar.  At Cellar, you can slip behind the velvet rope and experience a personalized selection of wine tastings in the comfort of W Bali’s premium wine cellar.

Time to reflect ... the Eat Pray Love guru Ketut Liyer with a W guest

Well fortified after my Ian Lovie approved breakfast,  I opt to take a catamaran tour rather than leaping at the chance to meet the bloke from Eat Pray Love; oddly enough, that tour isn’t particularly popular with the fellows.

The 18m cat from X Sails Bali takes me and a few close friends out to Crystal Bay.

Onboard the cocktails were mixed by W Seminyak’s chief mixologist Joseph Boroski. The first mojito goes down at 11.30 in the am, and by the time we all arrived back at dusk we were all very tired and emotional indeed.

During the cruise I take time to have a private chat with George, our skipper and owner of our vessel.

George and I sit on the stern, I ask him how he came to be in Bali running a beautiful boat among the islands and over crystaline waters.

“God loves me,’’ is his declaration.

With the blue waters gently smoothing in our wake as we cruise the islands around Bali, it’s difficult to argue with him, nor am I disposed to do so.

W Retreat & Spa Bali – Seminyak

Jl. Petitenget

Seminyak,

Bali

80361

Indonesia

Phone: (62)(361) 4738106

www.whotels.com/baliseminyak

X Catamaran trip to Crystal Bay: guests can book directly with Whatever/Whenever service at W Bali or go to http://www.xsails-bali.com/