Sark is a haven for those escaping the urban jungle of cars and traffic, and also those escaping the Inland Revenue. Sark is a land of no cars, and no income tax. It’s self-governing, recently democratic, and still feudal.

Just over 600 people live on Sark, and if no one knows your name before you arrive, stay more than 8 hours, and everyone will by the time you leave. Stay here long enough, and it can even feel like a page from The Firm.

There are two main parts, Greater Sark and Little Sark, connected by a narrow isthmus called La Coupee, which offers one of the most stunning views on the island, and also the steepest hill. Not for those with a fear of heights, there’s a 100m drop on each side, down to turquoise waters and a golden sandy beach.

There’s no pollution on Sark. No pesticides, either. All of that makes for great, dark skies at night, all the better for star-gazing.

There’s a “toast rack” trolley that transports visitors up the harbour hill to the four-cornered centre of town, where bike rental shops await. Booking ahead is essential in the summer months unless you fancy walking the island. It’s not big, but will take an hour to travel end to end. Horse-drawn carriages can be hired as well. Tractors are for the menial tasks of transporting luggage and cargo.
The wide, car-free, dirty lanes are a cyclists’ dream. In mid-summer, vibrant shades of blue and green wash over the landscape, filled in with more exotic colours from the tropical flora which thrive on the island. Stone houses and fields which seem to reach out to the sea create eye candy on every route.

The Seigneurie Gardens are worth a look, though £3.50 seemed a bit steep for fairly small grounds. Better still, follow the signs for the walk to the “window in the rock” just up the road, a bit further north. We never found it, but were treated to another of the island’s most breathtaking views by following the signs.

A day on Sark will do it for those just wanting a dip into this remote island. But, if you’re curious about the culture, and want a first-hand taste, you’ll have to spend the night and mingle with the locals.

Getting there:
Sark Shipping Services
www.sarkshippingcompany.com

Tips: Best to travel from Guernsey, rather than Jersey, where boats can be delayed due to rough weather in the Atlantic. Travel insurance is strongly advised. Boats can be delayed due to other reasons. Aurigny Airlines operate flights from the UK to Guernsey.

www.aurigny.com

Totally cuts it .. the Stocks on Sark

Most hotels on Sark have been around for years and in the same families for decades.

Just five minutes on a bicycle from The Avenue (Sark’s main street), a dirt path flanked by a field of sheep connect Stocks to the rest of the island from its wooded valley.  Paul Armorgie is part of the second generation to run Stocks Hotel on Sark, and hospitality clearly runs in the family.  Even before we checked in, we met some of the Stocks’ staff coming back from a successful fishing expedition.  They weren’t on the clock, but couldn’t have been more welcoming, or friendly.

The stone farmhouse has a number of outbuildings with large, spacious guest rooms and big, firm beds that guarantee a good night’s sleep.   Stocks is the sort of place families, couples and single friends come to chill out and take it easy, not party.  The farmhouse has a rustic, lodge feel, but no scratchy linens, and terrific, strong showers.

It’s a ten-minute hike down to Dixcart Beach, more pebbles than sand.  And there’s an outdoor swimming pool with a small slide, and even a hot tub.  The grounds are wide and open, with plenty of space for lounging around with a book, waiting for the coals on the barbecue to heat up for lunch time.

Stocks have two eating options: a formal restaurant with a gourmet menu, and the brasserie, which was just our style.

The chef uses local ingredients, which, on Sark, means lots of fresh seafood, lamb and beef.  We were torn between two menus, seduced by the scallop starter at the main restaurant, but having had a glance at the seafood sharing board offered in the Brasserie earlier in the day, it was tough to shake the crustacean cravings.

Luckily, we didn’t have to choose.  The approach at Stocks is flexible, and accommodating.    We sat in the Brasserie and enjoyed the scallops before devouring a board heaving with fresh fish.  We substituted the mussels for prawns, which wound up a favourite, dressed in a light lime sauce, and struggled to finish the crab, sea bass, mackerel and scallops.

Rest assured, we did, except for the smoked salmon.  It’s not really seafood, is it?  But let’s not get technical.  Desserts looked good, but we stuck to the berries.  When you’ve got the Channel Island’s oldest mulberry tree just outside, and berries so ripe they burst with black juice when picked, it’s easy to resist proper pudding.

Guests are encouraged to help themselves to the harvest.  And calories are best saved for a Stocks speciality – the home-made aperitifs.  Sark’s harbour master moonlights as Stocks’ winemaker, distilling sloe gin, and a wide variety of exotic liqueurs, including blackberry, celery, pineapple brandy and even Earl Grey wine.

Sark is a fair-weather island, and frankly, there isn’t a lot to do when it rains.  But Stocks does offer indoor activities.  There’s a reading room stacked with books, and enough large rooms so that you won’t go stir crazy.  They also run art classes, and cooking classes, which can be arranged spontaneously should a rain cloud hover.  A local masseur is on hand, and there’s a small gym in the old stables.

If you fancy heading further afield, La Sablonnerie on Little Sark offers Inn-type accommodation, also set within an old farmhouse and outbuildings offering better spaces for families to stay.  It’s about a 20-30 minute cycle ride from the centre of things on Greater Sark, so best suited for those happy to stay put, or hoping for some exercise.  It’s eccentric, but the warmth of owner, Elisabeth Peree, adds true character to the place.

We tried La Sablonnerie for lunch and its legendary lobsters.  Warm temperatures and sunshine made sitting out in the garden a real delight.   Bouquets of wildflowers grace the tables and there’s a convivial atmosphere among fellow diners.   Few people who come to La Sablonnerie order anything except lobsters, which come with a choice of sauces.  Our appetite was whet with the thought of a lime and ginger butter glaze.

Crustacean that won't cost a crust ... Sablonnerie

The lobsters were delicious, but absent was the lime and the ginger, instead, served with a lemon.   But if you’re a Londoner, just the thought of sitting outside, eating fresh, locally caught lobster, without having to fork out a half day’s wages is enough to bring pleasure.   Elisabeth is the sort of hostess who will always try to squeeze people in, even when full up.  And a stroll through the vast grounds, with vegetable gardens, fruit orchards, and dairy farm are a wonderful way to walk off a meal.

There are also self-catering cottages to rent on the island.  A good bet would be to buy fresh fish on Guernsey to carry over on the boat for a truly local-style supper.

Stocks Hotel Sark

+44 (0) 1481 832 001

www.stockshotel.com

La Sablonnerie

+44 (0) 1481 832 061

www.sablonneriesark.com

But the Channel Islands?  Err, maybe not.  At least that ‘s what I thought, until I visited Guernsey and Sark recently.

The Channel Islands are Britain’s answer to Cape Cod or Ile de Re, but their proximity to the UK is where the relationship ends.  This handful of islands are all independent, with their own laws and tax regulations (quite favourable ones, too, if you can afford to plunk down a pile of local currency for bricks and mortar on any of them).  And unlike so many tired, old English seaside spots, the Channel Islands aren’t the domain of the blue-rinse brigade.  They’re a cool destination frequented by a mixture of age groups, couples, singles and families.  And if you took a random poll in a pub, more than half won’t have been there before.

The islands straddle the UK and France, making daytrips to Breton spots like St Malo a doddle.  Guernsey, Jersey and Alderney are the most visited, while Sark and Herm pull the day-trippers, but are certainly worth more time, especially if, like me, you fancy a bit of car-free fun.

To get further afield, Guernsey makes a great base, especially for trips to Sark, only reachable by boat from either Guernsey or Jersey.  Boat services can be unreliable, due to weather, harbour traffic, and breakdowns, but Jersey more so, because of its position nearer to the Atlantic.

Guernsey itself is a piece of cake to get to.  Aurigny Airlines and FlyBe operate service from London’s Gatwick and City airports, as well as Southampton, with a one hour flight time.  Aurigny may not be a household name, but they win the prize for most chilled out staff.   More than a couple of people were overheard describing the boarding and flight experience as the opposite of two other well known airlines.

Let’s just say one’s Irish, and at the low end, and the other’s British, and likes to think it’s at the high end.  The complimentary bevvies on board the Aurigny flight were nice, but the real seller for me is the flexible ticket policy.  Changes are permitted up to two hours before flight time for only £25.   These folks know their audience.

To visit Guernsey itself, you won’t need to worry too much about the weather.   But, if you like to tick a few boxes in one trip, plan for spring and summer (May-early September) for the best chances of getting out to one of the smaller islands with the least disruptions, though anything’s possible.

Amy Hughes

Aurigny Airlines: www.aurigny.com

It’s a hard choice on the Channel Islands.  Lobster,  crab, bream,  brill … that’s just a smattering of what’s caught in local waters.

Thankfully, as long as you’re dining with a fellow seafood lover, you don’t have to decide.  Most restaurants, including Da Nello, in Guernsey, offer a seafood platter for two.

We chose Da Nello after being warned it could be tough to get fed in Guernsey on a Sunday.  All of the shops are closed, as well as many of the restaurants.  This Italian restaurant has been around more than 30 years, and was recommended for its long list of fresh catches.

Just a two-minute walk from the seafront, Da Nello is smarter than it looks, with  a real Mediterranean feel inside, with cozy booths and a cavernous room which can seem like an oasis on a hot, sunny day.  The restaurant was full, but we could still hold a comfortable conversation without fear of being overheard or drowned out.

The menu is a perfect duo – half traditional Italian and half fresh fish, and even offers several “low fat” dishes, denoted with a heart.  What a relief for those of us aiming for a late summer bikini break.

I can imagine the heartier, Italian food being a great winter warmer, but when we were there, it was a toasty 24C.  The crab and avocado salad was a terrific starter and bowled me over with the size.  Thick chunks were mixed in with fine white strands of sweet crab and my portion looked like more than a fistful.   My companion enjoyed the crab cake, but the crab salad was the clear winner.

We moved on to the sharing platter, enjoying a half lobster each, scallops, prawns, brill and bream, all drizzled in olive oil and cooked over a char grill.   A bit of garlic and parsley would have been a delicious addition to some of the more bland white fish, but the lobster left us fairly pre-occupied.

Strong will power kept us from ordering the ginger and mascarpone cheesecake, but the strawberries hit the spot, and homemade Guernsey cream was worth the calories.

The food here is simple, but with great local produce, it’d be a shame to spoil it with fussy sauces and new age tricks.  And the staff is happy to accommodate special requests.  The upside is, there’s plenty for fussy eaters, the downside is it makes deciding that much harder for the others.

Da Nello

46 Le Pollet, St. Peter Port, Guernsey

+44 (0) 1481 721 552

www.danello.gg

OMG, you mean I can only have lobster ... the pool at OGH

“Terribly sorry, Madam, but we’ll have to substitute your crab salad for lobster, will that be alright?”  I could get used to hearing that.  It’s fair to say, lobster is one of the main dishes in the Channel Islands, and unlike in London, it won’t set you back a pretty penny.  But on Guernsey, it’s not just the food that’s luxurious.    The Old Government House Hotel and Spa has earned its 5 stars and is a great spot to overnight if you’re just stopping over to Guernsey before heading out to Sark, or one of the other more remote islands.

Service, service, service is the priority here.  The staff is immediately warm and welcoming and no request seems to be too much.  The hotel has been around for more than 150 years, so I guess they’ve got lots of practice.  Their marketing manager told me, “No one tells you things for no reason.”  And it appears they listen, whether it’s a birthday, an anniversary, or even something as mundane as an allergy, the OGH (as they’re known around the island) do a good job at picking up on even subtle cues.

The interior is a classy step back in time with vintage posters, regal fittings, and floor to ceiling silk curtains.  Yet, this is a seaside place, and dress is, thankfully, casual.    Standard rooms are done up in a traditional, but modern style, some with lovely little balconies.   Extra long pillows and lambs wool throws that feel like cashmere invite to a lie-in.

The picturesque high street leading down to the port is just a 5-minute walk down the hill; far enough away from the crowds but close enough for a short stroll after dinner to watch the sunset over the harbour.  You could easily spend more than a layover here.  There’s a spa and proper gym, with so many machines you’ll never have to wait for one, and even fitness classes.  Governor’s Restaurant serves formal fare, while The Brasserie is more casual.

But the best meal of all is breakfast.  The OGH rolls it all out with three different kinds of nuts and seeds, kiwi, watermelon and berries, as well as meats, cheeses and Guernsey tomatoes.  And trust me, these little gems are worth the trip … like bursts of sweetness, they make their Italian rivals taste almost anaemic.  And that’s just the buffet.  Eggs and the full English are made to order.

Another treat is afternoon tea.  Apart from tomatoes, dairy is what Guernsey does best, and the garden, with great views of the Channel, is the perfect place for it.  If the weather turns, the sitting room’s no slouch, with chessboards, and international newspapers.

The Old Government House Hotel has some important, practical things too, like high speed wireless internet (you can even check email via the TV), printers for guests use (handy for boarding passes), and a heated outdoor pool in case the temperatures don’t creep up .

The weather can make onward journeys a bit unreliable, and this is one place you may wish to be marooned.

Old Government House Hotel and Spa

St. Ann’s Place, St. Peter Port

Guernsey

+44 (0) 1481 724921

www.theoghhotel.com