Lauren Arena

One of the best things about Trieste is the food. It’s not typically Italian, but a delicious mix of Italian, Germanic and Slavic tradition.

The culinary scene in this city, perched on a hill overlooking the Adriatic ocean, is as varied and colourful as it’s past. Whether its fine dining or grabbing a bite on the run, Trieste’s history is etched onto almost every plate – be it porcelain or plastic.

Where culinary worlds collide… Trieste

Restaurants, cafes and bars all reflect the city’s Austro-Hungarian roots as a prominent trading port and shipbuilding centre throughout the 19^th century. So while pasta and pizza are easily found on the menu, so too are dishes like jota, a bean and sauerkraut-based soup, wurzel, and krapfen (the German word for doughnut).

The city’s development as an urban melting pot was the product of Habsburg mercantilism, beginning with Charles VI’s declaration of Trieste as a free port in 1719. Foreign merchants and traders were welcomed in order to foster a merchant community.

With the arrival of Greeks, Serbs, Germans, Slovaks, Hungarians, Croats, Bosnians, French, English, Turks, Armenians, Italians and Jews from all over Europe, Trieste become the most prosperous port city and an important Mediterranean ‘bridge’ and a vital ‘gate’ to Eastern Europe.

After being annexed to Italy in 1918 Trieste’s economic significance diminished but its eclectic combination of flavours is still alive and well.

Delizioso… Gelateria Zampolli

Near the city centre, in Via Dante, there’s Eppinger Caffè, a historic pasticceria and restaurant that soon becomes a personal favourite. It’s the best place for a pre-dinner aperitif, all of which are served with freshly baked savoury nibbles, or a sweet treat afterwards.

A short walk away is Via del Ponte, a narrow laneway in the city’s old Jewish quarter that is jam-packed full of bars, restaurants and a few boutique shops. Come here any night during the week and it is swarming with people. So it’s a great place for a casual meal and a few social drinks.

Shifting through the crowds here I find the inconspicuous Taverna del Ghetto, a pint-sized, rustic tavern with a home-style menu and two incredible bar men, Eugenio and Michele. I order a hamburger – served on a toasted, ciabatta roll and stuffed with beautiful things like pancetta and provolone cheese – accompanied by a beer. Talking with the two kindly gentlemen behind the bar, I am soon very well acquainted with the cocktail list and after three delightfully refreshing Moscow Mules, I decide that is my favourite of all.

Next door is Osteria da Marino, another cosy tavern with a scattering of eclectic antiques, fish nets hanging from the ceiling, a fresh, seasonal menu and a hugely impressive wine list.

I stumble out of the Via del Ponte at 11:45pm – just enough time for me to walk across town to Gelateria Zampolli (in Via Carlo Ghega) before it closes at midnight. There is a ridiculous variety of flavours to choose from, all the classics are present, but so too are some original concoctions, like walnut, pink grapefruit and pumpkin. On a whim I chose ‘millefoglie’, a gelato reincarnation of the French mille-feuille dessert. It’s deliciously creamy with hints of vanilla and crunchy flakes of puff pastry. It’s better than the original and at 12:01am I quickly order another scoop.

My advice – visit Trieste on an empty stomach and stay a couple days so you can really appreciate its epicurean offerings.

The 84-year old, shrinking signora hunches over as she sets our frothy cappucini down on the Formica table.  She was born in the back of this latteria, or milk store, and took over the family business years ago.  It’s small, and empty, save for the refrigerated milk and Coke bottles, and a few pastries behind a glass counter.

Local flavour… Campo de’ Fiori

Elizabeth Minchilli, an American expat living in Italy the last 40 years, has brought me to Latteria di Vicolo del Gallo, named for its street address, to begin one of her exclusive food tours around Rome.

The latteria, she explains, is one of a dying breed; rare because it’s an old fashioned coffee bar, resistant of restoration.  Instead, it’s like a step back into the 40s or 50s – and in a place you’d least expect it.  Located just off the Campo de’ Fiori, this is some of Rome’s most expensive real estate.

The latteria may be at the heart of a tourist attraction, but few know about this treasure.  And that’s where Elizabeth comes in.  She knows quite a few of these places, and not just in Rome, but also Florence and Venice.  Minchilli authored three restaurant apps, but food is actually a second career for Elizabeth.

Architecture and design were her original areas of expertise, having written several books about recreating rustic Italian style in a non-Italian home, and through years of contributing articles to Architectural Digest, the New York Times and others.

But about four years ago, she got tired of writing about furniture, and switched the focus of her blog to food. Soon, Minchilli’s readers wanted to know whether she would show them the places she wrote about, and that’s how her small (only 1-4 people maximum), bespoke tours began.

Tours can be tailored specifically to client requests; today Minchilli takes me on her tour of Campo de’ Fiori and the Jewish Ghetto.  It’s a touristy area, but one with a rich history.  We walk through the market talking about the stark contrast of exotic produce, like blue potatoes flown in from Peru, to the first wild asparagus just in from Umbria, both selling at a stall where there are no prices listed.

If you have to ask, you can’t afford it.  And Minchilli tells me it’s so local, there are prices for friends, and prices for strangers.  I learn it’s bad form to patronise more than one vendor (unless they sell different things).  And who would want to offend their produce supplier?  Just opposite, stalls sell rainbow coloured pasta in phallic shapes, and pink limoncello; items no Italian would go near.

The place for pizza… Forno de Campo de’ Fiori

The first stall, with its expensive, unusual inventory is for the wealthy residents whose homes line this legendary square.  Minchilli fills me in on the history of the area, explaining that years ago, after the war, many who lived here were desperate to escape to the calm of the suburbs, for more greenery and more space, but those who remained now hold some of the city’s priciest property.  They’re the ones buying the Peruvian blue potatoes.

We step into Forno de Campo de’ Fiori, a bakery known for its pizza bianca which is like focaccia, just drizzled in olive oil and salt.  The key, Minchilli says, is to eat it fresh; within 45 minutes of it coming out of the oven. The owner comes from a family of bakers and we compare this pizza to that of Roscioli, owned by the same family and just around the corner.  They’re both excellent.  Roscioli is a bigger bakery, filled not just with bread, but cakes, and Panini, whereas the Forno concentrates more on its pizza.  You wouldn’t go wrong hitting either, or both.

There’s a quick stop at I Formaggi di Gianni e Paola, across the street, to buy mozzarella di buffalo and burrata for a tasting over cocktails at Caffe Peru.  I learn all hard cheese is called “formaggio,” while soft cheeses simply go by their names, like mozzarella, ricotta, or stracchino.  Our midday aperitivi tasting goes beyond Campari.  I taste Aperol, a similar drink, but with half the alcohol.  It tastes of bitter oranges.  Then there’s Crodino, a non-alcoholic adult soda made with blood oranges.  Apparently it’s hard to match wines with mozzarella as the tannins get in the way.  Perfect excuse for cocktails.  When children take the tour, Minchilli replaces the cocktails with craft beer and soda, offering kids a natural fizzy pop tasting.

Norcineria Viola is busy as people pile in to try plates of pork in various forms.  The fennel sausage is delightful and we eat it with unsalted bread to balance the salty meat.  A cold, red, farmhouse wine goes down too easy given its not even lunchtime.

Simple living… Beppe e i suoi formaggi

We’re making our way to the neighbouring Jewish Ghetto, and just on the border sits Beppe e i Suoi Formaggi.  It’s the main event for me; the wine and cheese tasting, we sit at a lovely table in an old wine cellar.  Beppe began life as Rome’s first ever wine bar.  It originally opened as a wine shop, and evolved because most stores closed during the day for lunch.  Beppe’s owner thought there was a market for serving food, and asked his wife to prepare simple, “non-cook,” dishes to offer.

The idea took off and has been replicated all over the city. Over time, Beppe has turned into more of a boutique wine shop, stocking vintages that go well with cheese, mostly from the north.  I try a Nebbiolo that could keep me here all day.  The concept here is simple: fantastic, affordable wines, champagnes and cheese to purchase, with table service for both, and one hot dish a day, as well as fondue.  I’m told they serve cheese you won’t find anywhere else in Rome.  I think I could live at Beppe.

Instead, we’re off for a “proper” lunch in the Jewish ghetto, at Da Gigetto.  Here, we eat deep fried artichokes, a Jewish Roman dish one shouldn’t try at home.  Like most fried food, it just doesn’t work as well without a serious deep fryer.  The highlight is vigna rola, a seasonal stew only available for about four weeks a year because all three ingredients are in season: artichokes, fava beans and peas.  It’s light, wholesome flavour is a welcome treat.

We’ve skipped pastries and finish with gelato at Alberto Pica, another classic latteria, where the ingredients are fresh and natural.  Gelato di riso, a signature flavour with a creamy base and real grains of white rice is both slightly strange and delicious all at the same time.

A day with Elizabeth begins at 10.30am and finishes at 3pm, with 10 stops and I can guarantee you won’t be hungry for dinner.

http://www.elizabethminchilliinrome.com/

Between the rolling hills of Tuscany, the architectural wonders of Rome, and the sun-soaked beaches of Sicily; Italy remains a favourite destination for tourists, history buffs and fashionistas alike.

And now Italophiles the world over can experience more of Italy’s picturesque landscape and buzzing cities for less.

More for less… Trenitalia

Rail Europe customers will now have access to the complete range of fares across Trenitalia’s lines, including discounts offered through the Italian train operator.

More than 180 trains link Italy’s cities every day. While the Frecciabianca runs the classic routes, the state of the art Frecciarossa and Frecciargento connect passengers between Milan and Salerno, and between Rome, the North East and South of Italy.

For those who like to travel in luxury, Trenitalia’s Executive Class features an open bar, meal services, a meeting room and a club lounge. All carriages provide wifi for one cent.

Rail Europe’s Australasia Manager, Richard Leonard, says this is an important and long-awaited move, especially for the Australian market.

“It’s no secret that Aussies love visiting and revisiting Italy each year,” says Leonard.  “In 2012, more than 45,000 Australians travelled around Italy by train, a 12 per cent increase from 2010, making it the third most popular European country for Aussie rail travellers.

“On average, Italian rail ticket sales in Australia increase by about 10 per cent each year and with increased air capacity to Europe this year, we are confident sales will only strengthen.”

Bookings for Trenitalia services can be made up to three months in advance and seat reservations are required before departure.

The Italian Rail Pass starts at $200 per person.

www.raileurope.com.au

Lauren Arena

“It’s the pimple of the North,” says the Italian man standing next to me on a crowded bus as it pulls away from Ferroviaria train station to make its way past the city centre and begin the steep climb up San Giusto hill. The roads are tight and windy as the sardine-packed bus edges its way deeper into the city, scrapping past rugged buildings and pedestrians who foolishly thought they’d be safe on the sidewalk.

From another time... Piazza Unita d'Italia

I’m in Trieste, a port city in northern Italy that’s perched on a strip of land overlooking the Adriatic Sea and Italy’s border with Slovenia, which lies almost immediately south and east of the city. It is the capital of the autonomous Friuli-Venezia Giulia region but as a città del mare, a city of the sea, it’s also an urban melting pot where East meets West and perhaps the most ‘European’ of all Italian cities.

But you won't find Trieste splashed across the cover of a glossy travel magazine, or even in an Italian guidebook. If you look hard enough you might find it, maybe at the very back of the book. Trieste is the often forgotten city of a nation that prides itself on its artistic history, its envelope-pushing fashion and its natural beauty. And Trieste, according to people like the gentleman next to me, has no such appeal.

I alight at Viale XX Settembre, a pedestrian avenue lined with shops, bars, mixed business and residential palazzos just north of the city centre. The street mall is pumping all day and (almost every) night with more than 14 drinking bars, five gelato shops, four pizzerias and an array of international restaurants like the Chinese Cina Cina restaurant, and Indian eatery Krishna – a testament to the new wave of migrants adding to the city’s multicultural communities.

I’m attracted to the lavishly decorated, Arabian-inspired Mille e Una Notte restaurant. Sitting on a spongy lounge, surrounded by velvet cushions with gold tassels and under dim, sultry lighting I’m delighted when my meal arrives – a mountain of lightly seasoned rice, topped with spicy chunks of meat and a drizzle of yoghurt. It's not something you'd expect to find in Italy but maybe that's what makes it so delicious.  

View from the top... San Giusto hill

In the heart of the city, in the imposing Piazza Unita d’Italia (Square of Italian Unity and so aptly named when Trieste was annexed to the Kingdom of Italy in 1918) there is Caffè degli Specchi, one of the city’s many historic Viennese-style coffee houses. Once the haunt of literary greats James Joyce and Italo Svevo – whose life-size bronze statues can be found nearby – it’s still the place to go if you want to be seen, smack bang in the middle of the piazza, with one of the best views of the Adriatic and prime real estate for people watching. But be prepared to pay for this panorama. An espresso will set you back about two euro, that’s double the average price.

Allowing a moment to take in the piazza itself is worth the extra euro. Embracing the Adriatic Sea, it’s flanked on two sides by impressive palazzos characteristic of the Habsburg era and reminiscent of Trieste’s history as the dynasty’s most important seaport. Today the buildings are mostly home to local government offices and Trieste’s grand town hall complete with clock tower sits front and centre. It’s a marvel of architectural beauty, albeit tainted by Italy’s tragic fascist past – in 1938 Mussolini announced the Fascist Racial Laws, which echoed the Nuremburg Laws of Nazi Germany, from the town hall balcony.

Just behind the Piazza, at the foot of the hill is the Teatro Romano, an ancient Roman amphitheatre that was excavated during the 1930s as a propaganda tool of Fascist Italy. Mussolini did much to assert the power of the Fascist State in Trieste – including building its obnoxious Questura (State Police) building directly in front of the amphitheatre.

Walking past the Teatro Romano, I’m a little disappointed and I don’t know whether it’s because I’m comparing it to bigger and better ruins like the almighty Colosseum or because it’s is so grossly overshadowed by its fascist-era neighbour.

Caffe society... James Joyce immortalised in bronze

By and large, Trieste is mistaken as the donkey amid a legion of Italian stallions like Rome, Florence, Venice and Milan who all jostle for the limelight and on the scale of archetypal Italian capital cities, Trieste is ranked at the bottom, if at all.

Author Jan Morris wrote about this ill-conceived scrutiny of the city in her 2001 book Trieste: The Definition of Nowhere.

Morris says, “It is a middle-sized, essentially middle-aged Italian seaport, ethnically ambivalent, historically confused, only intermittently prosperous… and so lacking the customary characteristics of Italy that in 1999 some 70 percent of Italians, so a poll claimed to discover, did not know it was in Italy at all.”

But a few things have changed in the 12 years since Morris published her book and in an ever-shrinking world Trieste’s future is optimistic.

James Joyce endearingly called the city ‘Europiccola’ (little Europe) and as Europe appears to be expanding more and more into the East, Trieste is envisaged as the centre of a new ‘Euroregion without borders’, perfectly integrated into a wider hinterland that should incorporate portions of Austria, Slovenia and Croatia.

So whether it’s ‘the pimple of the North’ in a country that seems to reject it, or an up and coming Mitteleuropean cultural headquarters, Trieste will always be a meeting place of diverse and ever-changing communities – a city without a territory.

When eventually I leave Trieste, it's grey and ominous. It is the middle of winter and the storm clouds are as unnerving as ever. Nevertheless I’m sad to leave. I’ve grown attached to the city and, despite the man on the bus, think its eccentric mix of food, language and architecture should be held up as the benchmark for any truly cosmopolitan city – arrivaderci Trieste, we shall meet again soon. 

www.turismofvg.it/Locality/Trieste