Amy Hughes

Portoroz literally means Port of Roses.  This small seaside resort less than 20km from the Italian border lies on Slovenia’s Istrian coast.  

And the name befits the town as its pampering roots date back to the 13th century, when Benedictine monks used seaweed and the famous Portoroz salt to soothe the stresses of High Middle Ages businessfolk. Later, members of the Austro-Hungarian aristocracy and military officers flocked here for the therapeutic baths.

Now, wealthy Italians, Germans and Austrians come here for long weekends, taking full advantage of the dozens of local spas on offer.  

I was surprised at how busy the hotels were during a recent wintry weekend.  Italians all around, and it was nearly impossible to book a massage, but the Paradise Spa at the Grand Hotel Bernardin managed to squeeze me in.    

It’s a good idea to show up early for an appointment at the Paradise Spa, as a treatment allows full access to both the traditional Finnish sauna, as well as an infrared and bio sauna.  The latter two have a chromotherapy system with changing colours and light, meant to restore the inner balance.  

When you’re done with the disco saunas, there are two steam baths, a Mediterranean and Thai, as well as a Hammam for scrubdowns. If this all sounds like a bit too much chill-out time, there’s an indoor seawater pool long enough for swimming laps with views of the sea and the sunset,  and a fully equipped fitness centre.

The Paradise offers both Western and Eastern-style treatments and their specialty is a four-hand massage, which may sound like a game of Twister, but I’m sure it’s actually rather hypnotic.  Massages range from traditional Thai to aromatherapy, lymphatic drainage, hot stones, Hawaiian, and sports, which is what I settled on.  I’m not sure the petite Thai woman knows what she’s getting into when she attacks my heavily knotted shoulders.  She manages to loosen them up, though I’m a bit worried she may have sprained her hand doing so.  

On my way to the dimly lit parlour where everyone gathers for post-treatment teas, juices and fruit salad, I spot a seductive room with twin mattresses for a couples massage.  
I’m starting to see how some can spend an entire weekend in paradise.

Paradise Spa at the Grand Hotel Bernardin
Portoroz, Slovenia
+386 5 695 10 51

http://www.h-bernardin.si/en/

Amy Hughes

Set in the centre of Europe, Slovenia has recently elected a new Prime Minister,  Zoran Janković. The former Mayor of the capital city Ljubljana, Janković is credited with creating what many consider a model city for its pedestrian and bike-friendly city streets. I take a whirlwind tour with Ljubljana’s Deputy Mayor Janez Koželj and urban mobility expert Blaz Lokar.

Blaz’s priority is creating cities built for two – as in, two wheels, or two feet.  “We want to put pedestrians and cyclists first and public transport.  That’s the Plečnik Square….you’ll see a lot of architecture by Plečnik.”  Blaz has worked closely with Ljubljana’s Deputy

An important artery since the Romans ... the mighty Ljubljanica River and one of the capital's many bridges

Blaz describes what Ljubjana looked like five years ago. “It was full of traffic.They banned traffic from the square. You could see taxis parked here on the square – now there’s a daily market and hundreds of people.''

You can see the people responding, he says.

"Most of the city centre is just for pedestrians actually. The numbers for public transport have increased now as well. If you make it more comfortable for public transport or cyclists, people will choose these options, it’s a very pragmatic thing.”

I ask how pedestrianising the city affected  local businesses. As we ride through the center of town, Blaz points out areas teeming with new cafes and restaurants. Even on a winter’s day, people sit outside under heaters alongside the Ljubljanica River -  an important artery since Roman times – sipping cappuccinos.

Blaz explains.  “We have removed the same amount of parking garages on the surface and just put them underground. If you want to make the cities friendlier, you should start to redesign the public spaces first, then you’ll have more people, more people means more investments, and then you’ll have nicer facades, new cafes popping up, everything…the foot-traffic in the newly pedestrianised areas has tripled.”

They’ve also built seven bridges, and even renovated and relocated a historical bridge, to create promenades throughout Ljubljana. Having mastered the pedestrian issue, city officials have finally started tackling another big problem: the pressure to build a mosque in the capital – the first mosque here in 40 years - to support the 100-thousand Slovenian Muslims.

For architect Vasa Perović whose firm won the contract, there’s enormous pressure to get it just right.

“This area was under Ottoman rule for a long time, therefore the expectation of the local community was to go back to some of the traditional Ottomon architecture, for us it was more a return back to the origin of Islamic architecture. So we have proposed a kind of a mosque which is at the center of the complex which contains a school and apartments and shops all of which relate to the community, a small village in a relatively contemporary design to bring back the ideas of, let’s say the first tents, so the idea is to make something much more fragile, and monumental."

It’s not every day an architect gets to create a new landmark.  The mosque is slated to open in 2015, and many hope it’ll serve as a model for other European cities.

While Vasa Perović labours over his designs, my tour guide, Blaz points out Ljubljana’s community is expanding.  “We had urban sprawl.  So for the last ten years people moved out of Ljubljana, so the number of people living in neighbouring cities increased, but in the last two years the number of people moving back to Ljubljana increased. So I think people responded to the changes in public places.”

They responded, but for Blaz there’s more work to be done. “We have a good culture of cycling in Ljubljana.  We have a 10% modal share but we can do better.” 

As the sun begins to drop, and we park our bikes, I ask the Deputy Mayor what the real secret to the project’s success was. “The key for this project is how to escape administrative obstacles.”   

Words of wisdom from a small country hoping its converted capital city is one worth copying.

Slovenia just celebrated its 20th anniversary since declaring its independence from the former Yugoslavia. Among the remains from that era is the former military barracks, but it’s been turned into something which doesn’t at all resemble its past.  

Artist Damien Krazina takes me on a tour of Metelkova City. Enter from the main road near Ljubljana’s bus and train station, and you’ll find a complex of seven buildings, covered in graffiti, all with an aggressive, in-your-face style of art. It bears no resemblance to its former self. 

So what was it before? I ask artist Damien Krazina.  “It was military of the Yugoslav army. All the studios are the same size, the same rooms and in this floor there are concert places for the music. Outside is an open air stage for concerts during the summer and 20 artists have studios in this building. “

Heavy Metelkova ... one of the works in the former Slovenian barracks

But not as cold as it was almost twenty years ago when artists squatted here, putting pressure on the government to turn it into a cultural centre. 

Natasha Cedes runs Metelkova and explains how it all began. “It started as an initiative of Slovenian artists, producers, concert organisers, cultural workers in the late '80s, because there was an urgent need to get production space. They had a lot of ideas because it’s a very precious location.  It’s in the city centre; it’s close to the bus and tram station.”

Most politicians wanted to turn it into a parking lot, and were so determined to fight the artists who squatted; they turned off the heat and hot water in the middle of winter.  But the artists prevailed, creating a centre that not only defied  the system, but is now thriving as an alternative centre for kids, teenagers, retirees, the gay community, disabled people, tourists, locals, you name it.  Natasha says there’s just one rule. “Metelkova is the most well known because of concerts, all types of alternative music…a lot of different styles, but strictly non-commercial. That’s the condition.”

Metelkova is also known for its gay and lesbian clubs. There are some 80 events, from concerts to book readings held every month for the entire community. And its bar is well known for serving the city’s cheapest beer.  And for underage teenagers, Natasha says  it’s a cool place to hang out on a Friday night.

“They come every Friday after school and hang out until after midnight.”  I ask what there is for them to do here.  “Nothing.  Of course, everything for them. Usually they just hang outside here.  And we are just maintaining and decorating space that is attractive to them. For example we have this watchtower here. They can climb and see from a distance their friends coming. Parents somehow recognise that this place has enough safety for their teenagers.”

Artists like Damien say the atmosphere is perfect for the creative spirit. “For me, I know a lot of people here so it’s some kind of community.  We know each other.  We also have several artists who work together as a group of artists. We have exhibitions together, so it’s a very positive vibration in the home of Metelkova.”

The city of Ljubljana still owns part of Metelkova and artists like Damien pay no rent – just maintenance. Damien says he would struggle without the subsidised studio. “It’s very hard to earn money as an artist in Slovenia.There is no real market for it. There are two galleries which are very serious and because of that it’s very hard to rent a studio. Here I work with Gallery Alcatraz, which is also in Metelkova and we are going out for the art fairs and trying to sell our work s in the international field.”

Slovenia may be a tough art market, but Natasha says many of Metelkova’s artists are rising stars. “Some artists who came here as students, now I recognise their work because they are doing national paintings. Most of our artists are not anonymous…far from that.”

Neither is Metelkova. In perhaps the most complimentary of ways, the artists seem to raise the profile of the centre, and vice versa.  Natasha explains the real secret to Metelkova’s success is its historical contrast. “Metelkova is special because of the whole history. Squatting in the ex-military complex, so from a really rigid military concept into a free art space…that’s something really important. It’s the image; the way it looks, that still everything is possible, what is nowhere else possible. It has a Metelkova style.  It’s very Metelkova.”

Just two hours’ drive from Slovenia’s capital city, Ljubljana, lays Portoroz (port of roses), set against the Adriatic on one side, the Istrian countryside on the other.  It’s a tiny little town that attracts mostly Italians unaffected by the recession.  The Italian border is less than 20 miles, (Venice just two hours away) and Portoroz is known for its spa culture.  Members of the Austro-Hungarian aristocracy and military officers flocked here from the 13^th century for its therapeutic baths.  Benedictine monks used seaweed and the local salt, sold in specialty shops today, to ease the stresses of medieval life.

I was given directions to drive from Ljubljana to the Kempinski Palace Hotel in Portoroz.  Everyone said, “You won’t miss the Palace.  It’s impossible to overlook.”  And it is. The 100-year-old hotel is both historical and cinematic.  A rich history and a colourful guest list of celebrities and statesmen make the hotel a landmark. 

Spa culture ... a well-earned rub-down at the Kempinski

The hotel has gone through several incarnations, first as a cornerstone of Portoroz’s thriving tourism and spa culture in the early part of the 20^th century, then as a ghost of its former self between the two world wars, when German and Yugoslav soldiers pillaged it and used it as their headquarters.  Renovations and the swinging '60s helped revive things at the Palace, along with famous guests, but like most tourist spots, the undiscovered becomes uncovered, and overdeveloped.  During the '70s, the hotel’s unobstructed access to the sea was no more, and without that, the vacancy rate dropped.  The hotel spent the next twenty-odd years changing hands before Kempinski was brought in to manage the Palace, restoring 5-star style and service to the hotel, after a serious renovation project was complete.

I was surprised to find the hotel fully occupied during an early weekend in December.  Remember, this is a seaside town.  But, the Italians who make up the majority here have come to chill out by the indoor pool and take full advantage of the spa.

It feels as though Marie Antoinette could have lived here.  Everything is perfect, from the decor, to the bedside lighting, there’s even a discreet reading lamp at each side of the bed in case of insomnia.  And, my own personal hang-up, a power socket near the bed since we all use smart phones as alarms these days, is looked after.  Whoever was in charge of the renovations thought of every detail.   The decor really is a blend of substance and style.  Normally this is the sort of hotel which feels overly indulgent, but spend 10 minutes in a room, and one realises that there’s a reason behind each design decision and it all really works.  Another favourite are the triangular shaped, black Faber-Castell pencils at the desk.  The pencils have been written about in design magazines for a great shape that just fits well in the hand.  .  It’s a small touch, but indicates someone behind all of this is in the know.

Combination of style and substance ... the Kempinski Palace Hotel in Portoroz

The passageway from the modern to traditional wing offers views of the countryside, and an herb garden.  The gym (one of my favourite rooms in any hotel) offers the latest equipment, and even a spin bike, though I’m not sure why it’s tucked so far away from the spa and pool.  That seems awkward.  Maybe Italians don’t work out?

Rooms in the modern wing are themed by colour.  Mine was a mix of soothing, slightly iridescent champagne and rose tones, which seems the perfect statement.   Beautiful balconies are done in understated wood decking and slabs of stone, creating clean lines which don’t distract from the views.

As one would expect, there are plenty of bar and restaurant areas, including one dedicated to Sophia Loren, and befitting such a star, too.  Menus are French and Italian influenced, and there’s a cigar bar to really replicate the heydays. 

Drinking siren ... bars include one named in Sophia Loren's honour

It’s a feast fit for royalty and I can think of no better way to fully experience what life must have been like here than to eat like a king.  It helps that they treat you like one, too.

Kempinski Palace Hotel

http://www.kempinski.com/en/portoroz

+386 5692 7000

Obala 45

Portoroz

In the heart of Europe, the tiny nation of Slovenia shares borders with Italy, Croatia, Hungary and Austria. With a countryside as diverse as its surrounding neighbours, Slovenia has been opening up its farms to tourists the last several years, but is stepping up the effort with a bid to become a serious food and wine destination.

The tiny and ancient village of Padna is set high in the hills above the Istrian coastline.  It’s less than two hours from Slovenia’s capital city Ljubljana, and just a few miles from the Italian border.

Ivo Tomsic is a local who recently took charge of Istranova, a tourist farm that produces its own olive oil. “The villagers here say this village grown on the chard because they have so many that they built the church from selling the chard.  The fishermen, they give him the chard and he gives him the squid, and they make a recipe the squid and the chard and the polenta.”

Nothing to truffle with ... Italians come to Slovenia for the food

Tine Murn of the Slovenian Tourism Board says investment is up, and there’s a push to capitalise on the country’s different regions, to make Slovenia a foodie destination.

“The real colour of Slovenia is the countryside, the people.  Slovenia is a very small country in size, but the diversity is really extreme.  It’s really the whole continent in one small country.  You drive for an hour, hour and a half and you can go from the alpine offer like a farm where they produce proper milk and cheese to where we are now, by the sea where they produce their own olive oil, beautiful wine, a lot of fish on offer, proper Mediterranean.”

With 2500 olive trees, Ivo’s farm feels very Mediterranean.

“Our olive trees are down in the valley.  You have the Beliza, white Slovenian olive; it’s very spicy and very heavy on the mouth.  Then you have the Licino, black olive, it’s more friendly to people.  The difficult part of olive oil is to pick them.”

Pretty soon, Ivo and his crew may not need to.  Istranova is one of several tourist farms serving food and wine, and teaching visitors about their olive oil production.  Later this year, they’ll become a farm stay, providing accommodation.  Farm stay experiences vary from helping with daily chores, to cooking classes, wellness programs, and expeditions based around food and wine.

Back inside the cosy, rustic, timbered farmhouse, I meet winemaker Tilen Praprotenik.  Like most local winemakers, his is a family affair, with everyone pitching in, working on the estate, harvesting, and going to market.

“Our native varieties are present for thousands of years.  A few years ago this region was mainly bulk-producing; we produced a lot of wine in bulk.  In the ten to twelve years we started to reduce yields.  We did a lot of work in the vineyards, the planting densities, a lot of things to improve the quality of the grapes and then the quality of the wine.  We have more and more wine which is of high quality and suitable for bottling.  Our region has a few producers which also export wines. We are going from maybe zero to maybe five per cent. Until a few years ago we were not a wine destination because we are not present on the world wine map.  But this is a pity because we have really good wine. The Italians, they come to eat in Slovenia.“

The attraction, Ivo explains, is the truffles and the quality of local ingredients.  The first course is black winter truffle with cow cheese and home-made fig marmalade; all produced right here. 

Another reason the Italians come here is because of all the parallels in their food culture.  Until recently, Ivo explains it was illegal to buy or sell truffles in Slovenia.

“This was a little bit funny.  Before you find the truffle, you have to go to Italy to sell it and go to Italy to buy it back.  The Slovenian truffle from Istria go to Italy and back, but now it’s legal.”

And that’s good, because Tilen says the local conditions are perfect for truffles.

“The valley behind this hill is ideal for truffles.  You can find a lot of truffles here because the truffle needs the oak, which goes very good for the truffle. Also the soil is very humid, but not always wet.  This is ideal for truffles; also the ph of the soil is very good for truffles.”

Tilen is so convinced he’s just bought a truffle-hunting pedigree dog.

“The parents of my dog were really good truffle hunters. The mother of my dog found 5kg of truffles in the last winter and the grandfather was a national truffle hunting champion. “I ask if the dog’s been successful.  “What I put under the ground she finds very fast, but when we go into the woods, it’s a different story, so we must wait.  For me it’s enough that she finds some truffles and that’s it.”  It’s just for home consumption, he laughs. 

Meanwhile, a busload of Italian tourists has arrived to taste Ivo’s truffles.

“They come for the seaside and to enjoy the food and wine.  The Italians are good customers but they respect good food but they don’t respect the wine.  It’s difficult to give the Italian, its food, food, food, but a bottle of good wine, the wine; they want a bottle of wine for ten euros.  It’s hard to sell him for a good price. “

It’s hard to say whether Ivo and Tilen will have better luck training a dog to hunt truffles or teaching Italians to appreciate a good bottle of Slovenian wine but at least they count on getting plenty of both the truffles, and the Italians.

Istranova

http://istranova.eu/en