Neptune’s Grotto is kind of a big deal

It’s Friday afternoon and my colleague has managed to show rudimentary navigational skills to discover one of Sydney CBD’s more recent dining additions. Neptune’s Grotto found on the low side corner of Young and Bridge Streets – a block from Circular Quay.

It sits just underneath the New York-influenced diner Clam Bar, which co-founders Dan Pepperell, Mikey Clift and Andy Tyson created two years ago so they’re on a roll in this part of town which is increasingly on the up. In fact, they’ve been on a roll for awhile with paparazzo’s dream Pellegrino 2000 in Surry Hills now a fixture in this notoriously fickle dining city.

The neon lights on the outside shine brightly on a grey day as we head through the front door and down a few steps into an eclectic dining room featuring a combination of cosy horseshoe-shaped booths and an attractive bar. Punters at the bar sit on stools gazing at their blurred reflections in a wall of wine fridges housing the restaurant’s eclectic, Italian-heavy wine selection.

There’s a solid buried grotto vibe. The walls are sumptuously painted and the centrepiece of the dining room is a glorious statue of Neptune himself. It’s dark, there’s a soundtrack of old Italian jazz and pop songs including a cracking cover of Hall & Oates I can’t go for that (no can do) by Rosalino Cellamare or Ron.

Speaking of Ron, it all sounds a little cheesy maybe even a little Ron Burgundy and “smells of rich mahogany” but like both Ron’s Neptune’s Grotto is kind of a big deal. I love it.

It’s about 2.30pm and the room is all but full. Admittedly, the dim lighting makes it a tad difficult for the sight poor but after a middle-aged (ok a bit older) attempt to use the small lamps sitting on the bar, we finally make selections and orders are taken.

A lovely mineral rich Domaine des Hâtes Chabliscombines beautifully with a wonderful fresh and exuberant Calamari alla Griglia – or Grilled SA calamari, chilli & rocket to begin.

This dish is a winner. Calamari lightly charred on the outside with a peppery hit delivered by the rocket ensuring the flavours linger on the palate leaving you quite simply wanting more. 

The accompanying Salumi Misti is a carnivore’s dream. It’s generous. I’m not too sure on the latest medical advice on cured meats but I’m going with it’s great protein and rich in vitamin B.

The dish could do with a gherkin or two, just to split the difference a tad on the meat explosion. That said, it is what it says on the menu.

Drinks empty and recharged. This time a nicely selected Barbera even if it was number three (after the first two we selected on the list weren’t available) partnered expertly with the most delectable meatballs imaginable.

Meatballs al pomodora is a revelation. A rich tomato sauce, the most gorgeous plump meatballs and just a hint of basil. This dish makes you wonder whether Nonna’s were actually that good. To be honest – probably not. Sorry Nonna.

The Cotolleta alla Milanese is a showstopper. It may be the best in town. Perhaps in Australia. The batter is a winner, dusted with Parmesan and breadcrumbs enveloping an outstanding piece of veal, and combined with a luscious butter lettuce and caper vinaigrette salad, it goes down a treat. 

To desserts and what desserts.

A special for the day – pannacotta with a hint of coconut I discern and, with the most exquisite splash of seriously good aged balsamic vinegar on the side, is something I’m still dreaming about. My navigator companion agrees this version is without doubt the best we’ve tasted on this wee planet of ours.

That’s a lot of meals and plenty of pannacotta. To describe it is hard because whatever superlatives you throw at it, they can’t and won’t match the outrageously good execution of this delicate palate caressing, tastebud tantalising dessert. The telltale wobble of the pannacotta, the silky soft luscious texture, the speckle of vanilla bean and that aged balsamic which is a headliner on its own.

It nearly makes you forget the hazelnut gelato sitting on a zesty sorbet we also ordered is fantastic in its own right.

We wander out finally (very) late in the afternoon – the last two stragglers from the restaurant and completely sated. The place is a wonder… just go.